34 TOUR IN SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 



hemmed up into a corner of the lake. When one was 

 separated from the rest, he generally began to croak in the 

 voice peculiar to these birds. In consequence of their 

 swimming so low in the water and their great strength, it is 

 very difficult to shoot them, particularly as when they are 

 once alarmed they dive so suddenly that they are frequently 

 too quick even for a percussion gun. When alone, this bird 

 takes wing readily enough, and lies off to some neighbouring 

 lake with a quick and lofty flight. 



We found our luggage safe under the care of the faithful 

 dog, who had never left his charge, and before dark we 

 arrived at the inn of Aultnaharrow, which is situated near 

 one of the finest lakes in the country, Loch Naver. Like all 

 the inns in Sutherland which are under the efficient and 

 liberal management of the Duke's factors, Aultnaharrow is 

 clean and comfortable. 



The following day, leaving my friend to fish in Loch Naver, 

 I drove off in the boat, accompanied by Dunbar and one of 

 Lord Ellesmere's foresters who lives close to the inn, for a 

 loch called Loch Laighal, or, as it is pronounced, Loch Loyal. 

 This is another fine sheet of water several miles in length, 

 with a few islands, the breeding-places of grey geese and 

 ifumberlcss gulls. There were vast flocks of that magnificent 

 bird the great black-backed gull (Larus marinus), and also 

 of the lesser black-backed gull (Larus fuscus). The former 

 is a most splendid and beautiful bird, with its pure black and 

 white plumage, and a stretch of wing little less than that of 

 the golden eagle. 



We had scarcely launched our boat on the water, leaving 

 the forester on shore, as our tiny craft scarcely held three 

 people comfortably, when a squall of wind came on, blowing 

 down the side of Ben Loyal in a perfect hurricane right from 

 the shore which we had just left. Short as the distance was, 

 we could not row back against it, and had nothing left for it 

 but to go before the wind right across the large loch, fully a 

 mile and a half in width at that part. At the same time, 

 owing to the lowness of the stern, our only chance of safety 

 was too keep the head of the boat to windward, a matter of 

 no small difficulty, as the wind blew in the most violent 

 gusts and increased every moment. The slightest turn of 

 the boat, which would bring her at all broadside to the wind, 

 must have instantly swamped her, and with this pleasant 

 prospect before us we went with fearful speed across the loch. 



