38 TOUR IN SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 



the prospect from the inu windows must be very different on 

 a wild autumn day, with wind and sleet driving up from the 

 west, from what it was on the fine June evening on which I 

 arrived. The view combines the most happy mixture of 

 mountain, water, and green herbage, dotted with fine old 

 birch trees : a few picturesque buildings, too, which are seen 

 from the inn, add to the happy and riant expression of the 

 scene. 



The Shin river, which runs out of the lake near the inn, is 

 a fine and picturesque stream, charming to the eye of both 

 painter and fisherman. The Shin salmon are of a large size 

 and very plentiful. I stopped for half an hour or so at the 

 falls, two or three miles from the lake, and saw a great 

 number of salmon, and even trout, leaping ; some of them 

 succeeded in passing up, others fell back into the pool below, 

 in consequence of not having leaped with sufficient strength, 

 or from having miscalculated the distance and angle at which 

 to take the leap. All the scenery about the falls of the Shin 

 is very beautiful : the steep and lofty hill which comes down 

 to the water's edge is covered with wood, and, at this time of 

 the year, was alive with singing birds of all kinds ; whilst 

 the coo of the wood-pigeon, and the shrill cry of the kestrel 

 as she hovered with quivering wings over our heads, com- 

 bined to please the eye and ear. 



We were rather amused with the truly English determina- 

 tion which was shown by a gentleman (who, like ourselves, 

 was admiring the falls) not to enter into conversation, or 

 indeed to admit that he was aware of our presence. Perched 

 on the extreme point of rock overlooking the falls, for above 

 half an hour he turned his back most resolutely towards us, 

 as we sat immediately behind him. 



It is part of the nature of Englishmen to look upon all 

 strangers as intruders, if not as enemies ; and yet many a 

 pleasant acquaintance and friendship have I formed without 

 any formal introduction, being, I am happy to say, un-English 

 enough not to be afraid of committing myself or of losing 

 caste by addressing a stranger. Throughout life I always 

 find that civility is met by civility, wherever it may be 

 bestowed. At the same time nothing is easier than to put a 

 stop to impertinence, should one meet with it, 



En route to Lairg I called on Mr. Young, who is manager 

 of the Duke of Sutherland's fisheries in the county. He 

 received me with great civility, and kindly gave me much 



