52 TOUR IN SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 



ever have found their way here. The landrails too seemed 

 to be numberless ; in every patch of corn they were calling 

 and answering each other in such quantities, that it was 

 impossible to tell how many were croaking at once. I also 

 heard two or three goatsuckers (Caprimulgus) making their 

 whirring noise about the stone walls and belts of plantations. 

 All night the sedge-warbler was cheering his mate with his 

 sweet and constant song. 



I saw some seals playing the most extraordinary gambols 

 in the smooth water. The sea was as calm as possible, and 

 like a mirror everywhere, excepting where these animals 

 were swimming after each other in a circle, so rapidly that 

 their track resembled a complete whirlpool. Occasionally 

 they lifted themselves perpendicularly up in the water, 

 showing half their bodies, and looking as like the representa- 

 tion of a mermaid as possible. 



I should have liked to prolong my stay had it been in my 

 power to do so, as there is much to interest the visitor, both 

 in the varied and magnificent scenery of land and water, and 

 also in the numerous wild animals, common enough here, but 

 rare in the more southern parts of the country. 



C H A P T E E VI. 



Ferry from Tongue Difficulties of our Start Seals Shepherds, ^.Emi- 

 gration Heilam Inn Storm River Hope- -Drive to Durness Cave 

 Rock Pigeons Inn at Rhiconnich Search for Osprey's Nest Swimming 

 to Nest Loch of the Eagle Fisher Stalking the Osprey Row up the 

 Bay Loss of Fishing Line Scowrie Island of Handa Innumerable 

 Birds, &c. 



OUR start from Tongue for Durness was amusing, though not 

 without difficulty. We had to cross a ferry immediately 

 below the inn ; but on going to the ferry-house and raising 

 the nag that signified the want of a large ferry-boat (the 

 boats being on the opposite side of the bay)] we after some 

 delay were answered by the arrival of a small sailing-boat, 

 far too narrow to take over either horse or carriage. On 

 making inquiry of the ferryman, he told us that the large 

 boat was at present out of the water and under repair, but 

 that if we could wait ten days or a fortnight it might be 

 ready. This did not sound promising; but I settled the 

 difficulty by sending the horse to a point, from which a boy 



