A HARBOUR OF REFUGE. 55 



house looked unpromising, we found the interior clean 

 enough, the people respectable, and plenty of fresh herrings 

 and new-laid eggs. So, the storm not abating, we determined 

 to take up our quarters there for the night. 



Loch Erriboll is an excellent harbour of refuge during 

 gales from the north and north-east. The anchorage is good, 

 and the water deep ; so that no storm conies on from that 

 quarter without some vessels coming in for shelter. I went 

 out to the leeward of the rocks of the peninsula on which 

 the inn is built, and, accompanied by Fred, sat some time 

 watching several vessels come in, driving like leaves before 

 the storm ; and it was a relief to my mind as each vessel in 

 her turn swung round to her anchor, having weathered the 

 head of the peninsula and entered the sheltered bay formed 

 by the land on which the inn stands, where they rode in 

 perfect safely in tolerably smooth water. Notwithstanding 

 a stream which I found in the morning running through my 

 bed-room, I slept soundly enough. The wind and rain had 

 somewhat abated, and I walked across the country towards a 

 fine headland, some six or eight miles off, called Whitenhead. 

 The rain coming on again obliged me to return without quite 

 reaching it. The entire coast here is very grand and steep, 

 exposed to the whole force of the ocean : the rocks are cut 

 up and weather-beaten to a degree unknown in more southern 

 or more sheltered countries. 



In the course of my walk I came to the mouth of the 

 liiver Hope, which runs into the sea half-way between 

 Heilam and Whitenhead. The course of the river is very 

 picturesque, forming as it does a green glen covered with 

 grass and foliage in the midst of the dreary grey country 

 which surrounds it. I am told that a great number of 

 salmon ascend into Loch Hope when the river is tolerably 

 high. In a corner sheltered by rocks and birch-covered 

 banks is a solitary hut, where Mr. Hogarth's fishermen live 

 during the fishing season, to be at hand to attend to the nets 

 laid in the sea at the mouth of the river. This hut was on 

 the other side of the stream, which was then much swollen ; 

 but a fisherman immediately came out and crossed in a boat 

 to where I was standing : it seeming quite an agreeable sur- 

 prise to him to have a human being to speak to in that 

 lonely spot. He complained of the mischief done to his nets 

 by seals: and also said that great numbers of otters were 

 living about the rocks near the river. The number of cor- 



