MODES OF REACHING THE COUNTY. 97 



From Inverness to Tain or luvergordon the way is easy, 

 by land or sea. Once there, the traveller in Sutherlandshire 

 has two ways of going through the county either by hiring 

 a horse and suitable machine, or by travelling by the mail- 

 carriage, a kind of open phaeton, which takes (as well as I 

 remember) several passengers: this vehicle goes twice a week 

 northwards, and as often south. I rather prefer the more 

 independent way of hiring a horse, which ought to be done 

 for four or five shillings a day, exclusive of his keep. 

 Although hay is not always to be had, I never failed getting 

 good oats at the inns, and good grass, so that a horse is never 

 at a loss. From Tain or Invergordon the best route to the 

 north of Sutherland is to Ardgye, near Bonar Bridge ; a good 

 inn and excellent landlord. From thence to Lairg is eleven 

 miles. 



At Lairg is another excellent inn, in a most beautiful 

 situation. Lairg to Aultnaharrow, twenty-two miles ; thence 

 to Tongue, seventeen miles; Tongue to Durness, eighteen 

 miles, with a resting inn at Heilam Ferry, or Loch Erriboll, 

 about half-way. 



At Durness I should be content to pass many a day. The 

 inn is one of the best in Sutherland, and the landlady, Mrs. 

 Koss, makes her visitors as comfortable as they can desire ; 

 at the same time her charges are as moderate as the most 

 economical traveller could wish. The country round Dur- 

 ness is full of magnificently wild scenery, and the sheltered 

 little sandy bays afford excellent bathing. 



Durness, by Bhiconnich, to Scowrie, is about twenty-six 

 miles. Scowrie should be another resting-place : there is 

 much to see, and a good inn. For my own part, I have a 

 most pleasing recollection of Scowrie, and of the hospitality 

 of Mr. M'lvor (the Duke of Sutherland's manager in that 

 district.) 



Scowrie to Inchnadamph, by Kyleska Ferry, still takes the 

 traveller through a country, every step of which is most 

 splendidly wild and picturesque. Inchnadamph inn, at the 

 oot of Ben More, and at the head of Loch Assynt, is another 

 good resting-place. Loch Inver, fourteen miles from Inchna- 

 damph, has also an excellent inn, and is well worth going to 

 see. To Inveran inn, on the Shin river, from Inchnadamph, 

 s thirty-two miles ; but with two inns on the way, Altan- 

 nan-cealgach and Oykel, at both of which tolerable accom- 

 modation may be had. Inveran is a small house, but as 



