PRUNING AND TRAINING. 129 



with and close to the trunk, the wound, it is contended, 

 will be one-third larger, with no advantage, and requiring a 

 greater effort of the tree to recover. But by starting the 

 cut a little way out from the stem, and cutting upward ex- 

 actly to it, the wound is not only smaller, but sap will de- 

 termine more strongly to the base of the cut, which will 

 soon cause the wound to be covered. Such wounds should 

 be pared smooth, in order that they may quickly heal over. 

 Others will persist in cutting off large limbs from one to 

 two inches from the rings around the base of the branch, 

 as shown at A (Fig. 57). Such long stubs will almost al- 

 ways decay; and if they are large, the entire stub will rot 

 clear to the heart of the tree. 



How to Cut off large Branches. Limbs of fruit-trees are 

 sometimes broken down by snow or by a furious wind, so 

 that it becomes necessary to cut them off close to the body 

 of the tree. When the amputation of a large branch is 

 important, let it be sawed first, at least one-third off, on the 

 under side, say six inches from the central stem. Then run 

 the saw down on the upper side, to Fig. 58. 



meet the under kerf. After the limb 

 has dropped to the ground, saw off 

 the stub with a smooth cut at the 

 rings, as directed p. 128, and cover 

 the wound with wax at once. This 

 precaution is necessary to prevent the 

 branch from splitting down, like Fig. 

 58, before it is sawed off, and thus $ BP 



making a large wound on the side of 

 the tree. Such large branches are 

 frequently cut off with an axe, which Branch splitting down when 

 will leave the wound very jagged; 



but if a sharp pruning-saw be employed, the surface of the 

 wound will be smooth, and will quickly heal over. 



6* 



