22 



or more buds, and fixing it in a prepared portion of the stock. The scion 

 shield may be one or more inches in length, leaving the bud about the 

 centre. As a matter of course, the piece of bark removed from the 

 stock must be of the same size as the scion shield, as it is essential 

 that the union should be exact. If the scion shield is larger 

 than the diameter of the stock, a longitudinal strip of bark, equal in 

 width to the difference, should be removed. On the other hand, if the 

 stock is the larger, a portion of its bark must be left, so that there will 

 be no void. It is not advisable to head the stocks back until the 

 scions have fairly taken. Flute-budding may be performed in the 

 spring, when the sap begins to move, and in the autumn. The practice 

 may be found more especially useful with the Cherry, Fig, Chestnut, 

 Mulberry and Walnut. 



Selecting JSuds. Some care is required in the selection of buds. They 

 should be invariably taken from thrifty shoots that have nearly com- 

 pleted their growth, and whose wood has fairly ripened. Over-luxuriant 

 shoots should be rejected, as likely to form trees deficient in fruitfulness. 

 Care should also be taken to select buds from trees that are perfect in 

 character. Imperfect, immature, or fruit buds must be rejected, leaving 

 only single wood buds for use. The wood bud may generally be known 

 by being more pointed than the fruit bud, though in some cases they are 

 both together. It is advisable to keep the buds on the shoots till they 

 are required for use, and if prepared previously they must be kept moist, 

 or otherwise they will dry up quickly and be useless. The operation 

 of budding should be performed on dull or moist days, or in the mornings 

 and evenings, when the air is cool and still, so as to lessen the risk of 

 the buds drying. It should also be borne in mind that in budding the 

 smarter the work is done the better, as quick manipulation is one of 

 the essentials to success. 



Season for Budding. The proper time for budding is when the bark 

 of the stock will separate feely from the wood after the current 

 season's growth is nearly finished. It is essential that this growth 

 should be nearly matured, and the buds plump and well developed. 

 The time for performing the operation will vary to some extent according 

 to the nature of the trees, locality and season, and the difference will 

 often be considerable. As a rule, however, the work may be commenced 

 about midsummer or a little later, and can be continued during January 

 and February, taking, as a matter of course, the earlier kinds first. It 

 should be remembered that, in order to successfully carry on this work, 

 the operator must be provided with a proper budding knife ; this has a 

 fixed blade at one end and an ivory handle with a thin rounded edge at 

 the other ; the latter is used for opening the bark, which it does more 

 perfectly than if a knife blade is used. 



Ligatures. In all modes of budding and grafting a ligature is 

 required to secure the scions in their places. The tying should be done 

 as soon as possible after the stock and scion is fixed, as if not done 

 quickly the action of the air will have an injurious effect upon the bud 

 or graft. The best ligatures are those that will not contract or expand 

 to any extent under the influences of changes of weather, but which, 



