Currant, Gooseberry, Fig 1 , Hazel, Mulberry, and Quince. Good plants 

 of all these fruits may be obtained from cuttings, but in the case of 

 other kinds growth is too slow and weakly to allow this method to be 

 utilized. In fact, excepting the kinds named, cuttings will never make 

 vigorous and thrifty plants. Cuttings of Gooseberries and Currants 

 should be taken off when the plants are pruned, leaving them about 

 12 inches long, making the base just below a bud, with as clean a cut as 

 possible. The cuttings should be inserted about half their depth in the 

 ground, and all buds below the surface, except the two lower ones, 

 ought to be removed, in order to check the tendency to form suckers. 

 The cuttings may be planted at any time before the spring, but it is 

 advisable to get them in earlier than other fruits, because growth 

 becomes active sooner. Grape cuttings should be made from 10 to 15 

 inches long, with four or n've joints, and ought to be planted about half 

 their depth in the ground. They should be selected from well-ripened 

 wood of the previous season's growth, and shoots that have borne fruit. 

 The very best cuttings are those taken from the lower part of the shoots, 

 and if they can be taken off with a piece of the old wood attached, or 

 what is technically called a heel, they will root with greater facility. 

 It is not advisable to plant Grape cuttings early, as they generally make 

 a better start if put in after spring has commenced. Figs and Hazel 

 nuts may be readily propagated from cuttings of the last season's wood, 

 from 10 to 15 inches long, preparing and planting them as recommended 

 for the Grape. Most trees propagate most readily from cuttings of the 

 previous season's growth, but they may be formed from older wood in 

 some cases. The Mulberry and Olive will strike freely from wood 

 of various ages, and large branches may be rooted without difficulty. 

 Though cuttings may be struck when planted out where the trees are 

 to remain, yet the safer plan is to set them in nursery beds, where the 

 cultivator can give them the necessary care and attention till they are 

 rooted. Though in the case of a vineyard this practice will entail a 

 little more labour, yet the chances of rooting the plants will be much 

 better. Complaints are often made that cuttings, and more especially 

 those of the Grape, fail to root freely ; but this is in most cases due to 

 causes that the grower can control. Sometimes the cuttings are allowed 

 to get dried too much from exposure before they are planted, when, as 

 a matter of course, their vigour is impaired. Then, again, they often 

 perish through the land becoming soddened, or from its getting dried 

 up. The greatest care should be taken to protect all shoots intended 

 for cuttings from exposure to atmospheric influences after they are 

 separated from the parent plants. Much injury is often the result of 

 this exposure, and as a rule all cuttings, or wood intended for them, 

 should be wholly or partially covered with moist soil or sand till 

 required for planting. The rooting of all cuttings will he greatly 

 facilitated by placing a layer of broken charcoal, say about an inch 

 deep, underneath. Let the charcoal be broken to the size of peas and 

 under, and let the heels of the cuttings rest upon the top of the layer. 

 The writer, from a long experience, can confidently recommend this 

 plan. 



