174 THE iriGHLAXDS OF CENTRAL IXDIA. 



faintly typified in mliowa grog and sticky sweetmeats. 

 Aunt Sally alone is nowhere : there is nothing at all 

 resembling the uproarious mirth of that ancient lady. 



Doubtless at all these gatherings there are a certain 

 number of genuine pilgrims, whose end in coming is the 

 performance of sacred rites at these holy shrines at such 

 holy seasons ; for the fairs are all held at times when 

 the worship of the local deity is held to be particu- 

 larly efficacious. But generally their number is no 

 greater a proportion of the whole than is that of the 

 " members of the ring " in a Derby crowd. Such 

 gatherings usually occur near the large centres of 

 population, where solemn temples crown some sacred 

 eminence by the holy Narbada. But the gathering at 

 the Mahadeo shrine was of another character from these 

 holiday outings. It draws its multitudes into a remote 

 and desolate valley surrounded by the " eternal hills," 

 where the Great God has his chiefest dwelling-place in 

 these central regions. No gorgeous temples or im- 

 pressive ritual attract the sight-seer. The pathways 

 leading to the place are mere tracks, scarcely discernible 

 in the rank jungle, and here and there scaling precipitous 

 rocks, where the feet of countless pilgrims have worn 

 steps in the stone. Young and old have to track out 

 these paths on foot ; and all the terrors of pestilence, 

 wild beasts, and the demons and spirits of the waste 

 surround the approach in their excited imaginations. 

 Arrived at the foot of the holy hill, the pilgrim finds 

 neither jollity nor anything more than the barest require- 

 ments of existence awaiting him. His food is dry 

 parched grain, his couch on the naked earth, during his 

 sojourn in the presence of Mahadevii. Should he be 

 amoDg the first to arrive, the tiger may chance to 



