Pruning for Form 



lOI 



Fig. 32. — An example of correct 

 pruning, well healed, but with 

 water-sprouts developing. 



order, along the trunk and branches, whenever the equilib 

 rium in feeding conditions is disturbed and lias to be ad 

 ju.sted, as, for instance, when 

 the tree has been heavily 

 pruned, or when soil or light 

 conditions have been changed. 

 Although they are not neces- 

 sarily a detriment, it is e^'ident 

 that they interfere Avith the 

 development of the regular 

 crown and are therefore best 

 removed. It appears that 

 water-sprouts are less likelv 

 to form if the pruning is done 

 after midsummer, when a re- 

 adjustment of feeding conditions without this expedient 

 seems to take place. 



In setting new trees, or in the case of plant material which 

 has not been trained in the nursery to form its head at a 

 desirable height from the ground, this should be attended 

 to first. This height depends ujjon the species and the 

 object for which the planting is done. In specimen 

 trees, and especially trees of high stature, and decidedly in 

 conifers, the crown should reach down almost to the ground, 

 rln shade and street trees it is desirable to keep it from ten 

 to fifteen feet above ground. 



In street trees and in ornamental plantings, where several 

 kinds of trees .stand close to each other, the pruning knife may 

 be used to advantage in preventing an undue expansion 

 of crown. If this is done at regular and not too long intervals, 

 interference between neighboring trees and the conse- 

 quent influence on each other's form may be avoided and the 

 operation be kept within the limits of a slight trimming back. 



