Care in Planting Trees 171 



Long, "leggy" roots and spindling branch systems are 

 undesirable. 



Knowing the ablHty of the tree to replace lost parts, and 

 the conditions under which lost roots are most easily replaced, 

 we can also prepare trees grown in field or forest for planting, 

 either while they are still in place, or by the nurseryman's 

 method, transplanting them several times. 



Whenever, in taking up trees, roots are injured or broken, 

 they should be pruned with a sharp, smooth, draw-cut, 

 which is best made in such a manner that its face will be on 

 the lower side. This is done to accelerate healing and 

 avoid rot, which is more apt to start on lacerated wounds, 

 and to induce formation of new root fibers around the cut 

 surface. 



There is a great difference in different species as regards 

 the abuse in handling which they can endure and the ease 

 with which they repair damage. Generally speaking, those 

 species which are good "sprouters", like willows, poplars, 

 basswood, maples, catalpa — "sap-wood trees" — are apt 

 to transplant " easily", that is they require less care. Indeed, 

 they can be planted as mere poles and, if conditions at the 

 base are favorable for root formation, such poles will grow 

 into trees; nor is there any reason to anticipate that such 

 trees will not grow into full-sized and normal form, the 

 frequently asserted fears to the contrary notwithstanding. 

 The tap-root trees, like the hickories, walnuts, oaks, and 

 some pines, offer difficulties on account of their deep-going 

 roots unless prepared beforehand by repeated transplanting 

 and pruning, or by root-pruning in place while young. 

 Some few other species, either on account of insufficient 

 ability to make new feeding roots or on account of excessive 

 transpiration from the foliage, are transplanted with difficulty 

 and for success must be prepared by root-pruning or severe 



