BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 



39 



sirable to remove, although it is an almost universal 

 practice in this country to allow this wood to remain, 

 and doubtless in a majority of cases, it is best to do so ; 

 but there are instances where a more permanent union 

 will be secured if it is re- 

 moved. With kinds of trees 

 like the magnolias, horse- 

 chestnuts, and common sweet 

 chestnut, that have a rather 

 thick bark on the young 

 shoots, better success will be 

 attained by the removal of the 

 wood from the bud. When 

 this is to be done, the shoots 

 used must be in a condition to 

 allow the bark to peel readily 

 from the wood, without tear- 

 ing or breaking the fibers. 

 Hold the branch in the left 

 hand with the smaller end to- 

 wards you; insert the knife- 

 blade about one inch below 

 the bud, cutting a little deeper 

 than you would if the wood 

 were to be left in, pass the 

 knife under and above the bud, 

 some three-quarters of an inch, 

 but not out to the surface, but 

 withdraw the blade, and cut 

 across through the bark only 

 about a half an inch above 

 the bud, then with finger and Fig. 7.— taking off the bui», 

 thumb lift up the bark, at 



tlie same time press it gently forward, and you will re- 

 move the bark and bud (fig. 7) a, without injuring it, 

 leaving the piece of wood l, adhering to the branch. 



