OR, MANUAI, OF THB APIARY. 



217 



be six-eighths precisely. This is z>ery important, as we must 

 have a three-eighths space exactly between the top-bar and the 

 top of the hive. If we make the hive ten and one-eighth (10>^) 

 inches high we give a space of half-inch between the bottom 

 of the frame and bottom of hive. I like this wide space, and 

 there is no objection to it. Near the top of the hive we' will 

 nail narrow cleats entirely around it; these strengthen the 

 hive, and are convenient supports by which to lift the hive. 

 Hand grooves (Fig. 90) can also be cut in end and side-boards 

 for convenience in handling, if desired. Mr. Root favors these 

 hand-holes always. They are easily cut, and are surely a 

 convenience. 



The entrance is cut in the end of the hive (Fig. 89), and 

 the size is easily regulated by use of the Langstroth triangular 



Fig. 90. 



DovetailM iriue.—From A. I. Hoot Co. 



blocks (Fig. 89, B, B). Thus we may gauge the size to our 

 hkmg. I would have the entrance the whole width of the 

 hive, and seven-eighths of an inch high. This may aid to 

 prevent the bees hanging out of the hive, and likewise may 

 restrain the swarming impulse. The opening in the bottom- 

 board (Fig. 87) is preferred by many. This is enlarged or 

 restricted by simply pushing the hive forward or back, and, of 



