MAR.] PRUNING, kc. 213 



If a plant have tzvo shoots, cut away tlic weakest, 

 and treat tlic strongest as above. I>ut if the phmt 

 be furnished with i/iree shoots, (and sueh are al- 

 ways to be preferred for this mode of training), 

 head down the middle one o;?(?/, as above, if mode- 

 rately strong ; but to ten or twelve inches, if very 

 stout ; and lay in the other tv/o, right and left, per- 

 fectly level. If these be quite entire, and ripened 

 to the extremities, they must not be shortened. 



Plants that are intended to be trained in the fan 

 manner, and have but one shoot, may be headed 

 down to four or five buds, if strong, and to three or 

 four, if weak, in order that they may fill the wall 

 or rail from the bottom. Such as have two or tlu^ee 

 shoots may each be headed to four or five buds, as 

 above ; out of which, if tliey all spring, are to be 

 reserved a proper number to form the tree. Maiden 

 trees intended for standards, or buzelars, should 

 also be headed down ; each shoot to form three to 

 six buds, according to their strengths, in order to 

 cause them push vigorous shoots, whereof to form 

 the tree in a handsome manner. 



New planted trees, that are not maiden^ but two or 

 three years from the bud or graft, should, generally 

 speaking, be xcell cutin; that is, the last year's shoots 

 should be shortened back to a few buds on each, in 

 order to cause them push the stronger, and produce 

 shoots to fill the wall or rail from the bottom. See 

 Priming in Januarj^, and Training in the su.mmer 

 months. 



Standard trees also, two or more years from the 

 bud or graft, should be well shortened, and the shoots 

 should be moderately thinned out ; leaving only 



