THE COOKERY OF THE SALMON 213 



culpable recklessness of his criticism, than when he 

 called on the waiter for the cruets, the mustard, etc., 

 when sitting down to a noble Tay salmon. But 

 when the fish has lost something even of its second 

 day freshness, we are open to consolation, for it gives 

 a chance to the sauce Hollandaise or the Tartare. 

 With salmon cold, whether plain or dressed, the 

 Tartare comes naturally, and indeed it may be 

 almost identified with the sauce Mayonnaise. 



' Broiling is best,' sings Southey in a Pindaric Ode, 

 when beef and mutton were looming in the poetic eye. 

 If he had been singing of the salmon, a good many 

 connoisseurs would have been inclined to agree with 

 him. Partly, perhaps, because after coming home 

 from a long day's sport, or when kindling a camp 

 fire at the bivouac in the sheltered open, the salmon 

 sliced and broiled is most quickly served with the 

 sauce piquante of ravenous appetite. Mrs. Dodds 

 asserts that fresh salmon grilled is ' the way in which 

 the solitary epicure best relishes this luxury.' 'Split 

 the salmon and take out the bones ' — they may be 

 subsequently devilled — 'cut fillets of from three to 

 four inches in breadth' — too thick, we think — 'dry 

 them in the folds of a cloth, but do not beat or press 

 them. Have a clean fire and a bright, barred 

 gridiron, rubbed with chalk to prevent the fish from 



