THE COOKERY OF THE SALMON 215 



we should have fancied the sickening soy was a 

 thing of the past, did it not appear still in the 

 quadrangular cruets of certain old-fashioned clubs 

 — 'a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a teaspoonful of 

 fresh-made mustard, and half a grain of cayenne. 

 Boil ten minutes. Knead together three ounces of 

 butter and a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir in 

 for eight minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon 

 and a wineglassful of Marsala or Madeira.' 



We like Cre fydd's confident affectation of pre- 

 cision, as exemplified in her instructions for boiling 

 and in these eight minutes for stirring the sauce. 

 Nevertheless, we daresay if she stirred for ten the 

 sauce would not perceptibly suffer. And as she has 

 made her mixture somewhat strong, she may be 

 justified in adding the Marsala or Madeira. But we 

 take the opportunity of hinting that in nostro arbitrio, 

 in the words of the Antiquary, the wine to drink with 

 salmon is sound Rhenish, though champagne will 

 always serve at a pinch. Even in Rhineland — and 

 setting questions of cost aside — we have no great 

 faith in Johannisberg beyond the Metternich cellars. 

 But Rudesheimer Berg, Rauenthaler, and the Lieb- 

 fraumilch of Worms are all passable second growths, 

 and will do well enough. 



Fillets are dressed in various ways. To a 



