THE COOKERY OF THE SALMON 219 



tirely masked with Parisian butter, very slightly coloured 

 with green or red, either with spinach green or cray- 

 fish butter.' 



When the slices are placed on the pain-vert they 

 are decorated with Mayonnaise or with frothy butter 

 squeezed through a cornet, and with fillets of anchovy, 

 gherkins, and chervil leaves. Then the plat is 

 surrounded with halves of hard-boiled eggs, bedecked 

 with crayfish, skewered and grouped, according to 

 the artist's fancy, and sent up with Mayonnaise. 



Middle-piece {troncon) of salmon a la Parisienne 

 is a pleasing variation. The centre piece is cut out, 

 boiled, cooled and carefully drained. Then it is 

 trimmed and 'set on a plateau historic,' and 

 masked with the butter a la Parisienne. For the 

 butter : ' Six yolks of eggs are put in a stewpan, 

 mixed with a table spoonful of flour, and a piece of 

 crayfish butter — then the whole is dissolved with a 

 gill of fresh mushroom liquor. When on the fire it 

 is stirred like cream, and when it has got some con- 

 sistence it is removed and passed through a sieve. 

 Should it happen not to be quite smooth when cold, 

 then a pound of butter in little bits is introduced. 

 The preparation must be well worked till it is light, 

 then finished with a few spoonfuls of mustard and 

 as many of essence of anchovies.' The piece is 



