TEMPORARY BEEHIVE. 23 



hive, plinths J must be prepared, from \\ in. to 

 2 in. wide, and nailed to the roof, projecting below 

 its bottom edges about f in. If a porch is wanted, 

 cut out two pieces of wood about 6 in. long and 

 slightly less in width than the projection of the 

 alighting board, slope the top ends, and secure 

 them by nailing through the hive front (do this be- 

 fore the inner walls are put in) and up through the 

 alighting board. A cover board 2^ in. wide is to 

 be fixed to the top (sloped) ends to throw water off, 

 and in order that it may fit close to the hive front 

 the back edge should be bevelled off. 



Swarms, also nuclei, sometimes require feeding, 

 so that it is as well to make provision for a feed 



Fig. 13. Device to Prevent End-shake to the Frames. 



bottle K, as shown in position in Fig. 10, by making 

 the roof deeper. In this case another full-depth 

 starch box might be cut across as shown by Fig. 12, 

 when it would furnish two deep roofs. A coat or 

 two of paint will make the hive more sightly and 

 more durable ; it will also keep it drier, which is a 

 point of great importance in a permanent hive, 

 though not so serious in one of a makeshift charac- 

 ter. 



It may be stated that on more than one occasion 

 bees have had to winter in hives similar to the one 

 illustrated in this chapter, and they have made 

 good headway, though they are liable to be severely 

 checked when breeding is in full swing and adverse 

 weather occurs in April and May. These hives, 

 therefore, cannot be recommended for use as per- 



