Ch. XXXVII.] ON CHEESE. 437 



We may also add, that in some parts of Saxony, cheese, which is said to be of 

 very fine quality, is partly formed from potatoes, and, if equal to the account 

 given of it, is worthy of trial. It is made in the following manner : — 



The potatoes of a large, white kind, are those to be preferred, and after 

 being boiled they are peeled, when cool, and reduced to a pulp, of equal 

 consistence, either by being grated or ground in a mortar. To five pounds 

 of this pulp there is added one pound — or about a pint — of sour milfc, with 

 the usual quantity of salt to impart a flavour : the whole is then kneaded 

 together, and, being covered up, is allowed to remain for three or four days, 

 according to the season. At the expiration of this time, the pulp is again 

 kneaded, and placed in one or more small wicker baskets, in order to get 

 rid of the superfluous moisture : the pulp is then moulded into form by 

 being placed in small pots, in which the cheeses are allowed to dry in the 

 shade during about fifteen days ; after which they are put in store. The 

 older they are the better they become ; and, if kept dry, they will keep for a 

 great number of years. Three kinds of this cheese are made : the first, or 

 most common, according to the above proportions ; the second, with four 

 parts of potatoes, and two parts of curdled milk ; and the third, with two 

 parts of potatoes and four of milk. Ewe milk is as frequently employed as 

 that of cows, and nnparts a pungent taste, which to many palates is found 

 agreeable*. 



skimmed at noon. Both kinds of milk are poured together into a large copper cauldron, 

 of the shape of an inverted bell, which is suspended on the arm of a lever, so as to be 

 moved on and oflf'the fire at pleasure. In this vessel the milk is gradually heated to the 

 temperature of about I'iO degrees ; after which it is removed from the fire, and kept 

 quiet for a few minutes, until all internal motion has ceased. The rennet is then added, 

 which is composed of the stomach of a calf, fermented together with wheaten meal and 

 salt: the method of using it being, to tie a piece, of the size of a hazel-nut, in a rag, 

 and steep it in the milk, while held in the hand, and squeezing it from time to time. A 

 sufficient quantity of the rennet thus soon passes through the rag into the milk, which 

 is now to be well stirred, and afterwards left at rest to coagulate. 



" Within about an hour the coagulation is complete ; and then the milk is again put over 

 the fire, and raised to a temperature of 145 degrees. During all the time it is heating, 

 the mass is briskly stirred, till the curd separates in small lumps : part of the whey isf 

 then taken out, and a few pinches of saffron are added to the remainder, in order to 

 colour it. When the curd is thus sufficiently broken, nearly the whole of the whey is 

 taken out, and two pailfuls of cold water are poured in. The temperature is thus lowered, 

 so as to enable the dairyman to collect the curd by passing a cloth beneath it, and 

 gathering it up at the corners. It is now pressed into a frame of wood, placed on a solid 

 platform, and covered by a round piece of wood fitting into the mould with a heavy 

 weight at top. In the course of the night it cools, parts with the whey, and assumes a firm 

 consistence. The next day one side is rubbed wiih salt, and the succeeding day the 

 cheese is turned, and the other side rubbed in like manner ; this alternate salting being 

 continued for about forty days. After this period the outer crust of the cheese is pared 

 off'; the fresh surface is varni!^hed with linseed oil; the convex side is coloured red ; and 

 the cheese is fit for sale." 



It would thus appear that this highly esteemed cheese is made of skim-milk, aiul yet 

 the pores are filled with an oily substance, which seems too rich to be imparted by the 

 hutyraceous matter of milk which has been deprived of its cream ; it is therefore com- 

 monly supposed that some portion of sweet oil is mixed with the curd, but we cannot 

 state it as a fact ; and even if correct, we have no information upon which we can rely of 

 the quantity or mode of its application. 



* Bullet, de la Soc. d'Encour. Ag., 7bre. 1829 : p. 393. 



