486 BRITISH HUSBANDRY. [Ch. XXXIX. 



water, while the latter, besides its superior degree of nutriment, possesses 

 all the high flavour of full-grown meat.* 



Our opinion has, indeed, been since confirmed by that of an undoubted 

 judge, to whom the subject was referred, who writes thus : — " A mountain- 

 bred Cheviot — say, a yell ewe rising six, or a wether rising four, yields a 

 diflerent quality from the greasy mutton generally found in the south 

 country. The important questions I hold to be are — is the mutton heath-fed ? 

 and, has it had time to fill the bones with marrow, and the flesh with gravy ?" 



In saying tliis, we have no intention to disparage the improvements 

 which have been made in the animal, nor the discernment and ability with 

 which they have been conducted ; for it is clear that, had they not been 

 realized, we should not at this moment have an adequate supply of mutton, 

 and the price would necessarily be raised. It is, therefore, a national ob- 

 ject to both breeder and consumer: but those country gentlemen who have 

 land, and who wish to have their table supplied with real good mutton, 

 should purchase a few of the smallest mountain sheep which they can pro- 

 cure ; and, if they cannot be obtained of sufficient age, then keep them 

 during summer upon the shortest natural grass that can be found — a close- 

 fed park, or a common, if downs be not at hand — and fatten them on the 

 approach of winter with sound hay and a little corn ; without either turnips 

 or oil-cake. When thus fed, and of the proper age, their joints will be 

 found interlarded with fat of the firmest sort ; the lean will have a fine 

 texture in the grain, with a richness and deep colour in the gravy ; while 

 the meat can also be kept untainted much longer than that of young turnip- 

 fixttened animals, and a saddle or a haunch of this mutton, if hung during 

 the winter until it becomes tender, will be nearly equal to venison t. The 

 long-woolled breeds of every description they should invariably shun ; for, 

 even if kept to the proper age, the flesh is coarse, and, though full of sap, 

 is flavourless : but it suits the poor man's pocket |. 



* To ascertain the age of mutton, Mr. EUman directs — "To observe the colour of the 

 breast-bone when a sheep is dressed ; that is, where the breast-bone is separated : which, 

 in a lamb, or before it is one year old, will be quite red ; from one to two years old, the 

 upper and lower bone will be changing to white, and a small circle of white will appear 

 round the edge of the other bones, and the middle part of the breast-bone will yet con- 

 tinue red; at three years old, a very small streak of red will be seen in the middle of the 

 four middle bones, and the others will be white; and at four years, all the breast-bone 

 will be of a white or gristly colour." 



f '' Southdown wether-mutton, in point of delicacy and flavour, is thought equal to 

 any that is killed ; and, in summer, as preferable to some other fine-flavoured breeds — 

 especially to Norfolk mutton. This circumstance is attributed to the closeness of the 

 grain, or the specific gravity being greater, rendering it more impermeable to the air 

 than coarser and lou&er fleshed mutton, which is, of course, more subject to putridity. 

 The older the mutton, the finer the flavour.'' — Sussex Rep., p. 331. 



" The sheep of the Isle of Portland, which is the smallest breed now existing in the 

 kingdom — seldom weighing more than 10 lbs. the quarter — are fed upon a rocky soil ; 

 and their flesh is so far superior to that of any other, that the mutton generally 

 letches a shilling a pound in the Weymouth market.'' — Dorsetshire Rep. p. 396. 



\ " The New Leicesters, on good keep, will yield a greater quantity of meat for the 

 same quantity of food, than any other breed of sheep can do. The kind of meat 

 which they yield is of a peculiar charac'er. When the sheep are not over fattened, it is 

 tender and juicy, but, in the opinion of many persons, somewhat insipid. When they 

 are raised to their highest state of condition, the muscles seem to be partially absorbed; 

 at least much fatty matter is introduced between their fibres ; the line of distinction 

 between the fat and the lean is in a manner lost, and with the exception of a few joints, 

 and a small part of them, the carcass has the appearance and the taste of a mass of 

 luscious fat." — Youatt " on Sheep," Farmer's Series, p. 320. 



" We are told that sailors, colliers, and keehnen are sure customers for these over- 

 fat joints ; and long may they enjoy them ! But without a doubt, the flesh of the small 

 sheep, fine in its grain, is a more marketable commodity, because its quality is superior : 

 in short, because it eats better," — Malcolm's Comp. of Mod. Husb., vol. i. p. 402. 



