Ch. XLIIL] ON GATES. 543 



ated off in order to lighten it at the shutting-post. There is a diagonal 

 stay, of the same scantling as the bars, abutting on the heel of tiie thur, and 

 ascending obliquely to the middle of the top-rail, into which the stay is 

 mortised. At the same point a perpendicular ledge connects all the lower 

 bars with the top-rail, into which it is also mortised. In this way the gate 

 is framed ; and if there be any defect in the construction, it is by weakening 

 the top-rail by mortising the stay and cross ledge into it, and at which 

 point the gate is sure to fail, if a heavy beast presses against it. If the 

 stay and cross ledge were formed of thicker stuff, they might be halved 

 upon and nailed to the top-iail, instead of being mortised into it ; the gate 

 would be much stronger, and of course more lasting. 



The gate-posts are placed in the line of the hedge. One is the hanging- 

 post, into which the hooks are driven which carry the gate. This post is 

 always longer and larger than the other, because it has the whole weight of 

 the gate to sustain when swinging ; and the deeper it is let into the ground, 

 and perfectly steadied by ramming, as well as by strong props, the longer 

 the gate acts properly. 



The shutting-post needs neither be so large nor so long as the other, 

 because there is always i(;ss stress upon it. It receives the fall of the gate ; 

 but this is never so severe as to displace it, if the gate be properly hung. 

 The posts are placed nine feet from each other, as most convenient for the 

 transit of all farm-carriages. Although the common practice is thus to 

 hang the gate between the posts, yet it is perhaps a better plan to allow 

 it to fall on the face of the shutting-post, as adding to its security. 



The thimbles which traverse upon the hooks are fastened to the thur 

 of the gate, and are usually forged with " fins" or wings," pierced wilh 

 nail holes, by which they are fastened to the thur. 



Hanging a gate requires a good mechanical head. It should open and 

 remain at a right anj^le, and when thrown to shut, its momentum should 

 decrease as it approaches the shutting-post, only falling thereto with no 

 more force than is just sufficient to move the "catch." This kind of action 

 entirely depends on the position and length of the neck of the lower hook. 

 The upper hook (whether on the inner or on one of the outer faces of the 

 post) is usually driven nearly home, leaving room only for the thimble to 

 move freely. Now, if the lower hook were inserted directly under, and 

 have no more projection from the face of the post, the gate would have no 

 fall, either to open or shut. But by placing the lower hook more or less 

 out of the perpendicular towards the side on which the gate opens, it will 

 have more or less of a fall towards the shutting-post ; and this tendency 

 of the gate to shut of itself may be much increased by making the shank of 

 the lower hook so much longer than the upper one. 



The hooks are sometimes inserted on the inner face of the hanging-post, 

 and the gate shuts into a rebate on the inner face of the shutting-post. 

 But this, of course, contracts the opening between the posts, and risks the 

 gate itself by passing wheels. A preferable way is to have the hooks let 

 on the outer face of the hanging-post, and allowing the gate to fall against 

 the corresponding face of the shutting-post. This leaves the opening 

 between the posts perfectly clear, and the gate itself is out of danger. 

 This manner of fixing a gate, however, requires that it should be some- 

 what longer, or that the posts be placed a little nearer together. It is 

 a good practice to have graduated " spurs" spiked on the inner faces of 

 both posts at the bottom, and to be rammed in along with the posts. Tliese 

 prevent either of the posts being damaged by careless drivers. 

 < Gates are mounted with various fastenings : horsemen like strap-springs 



