324 COTTON 



shafts, though there may be as many as six when 

 twills and sateen are made, while fancy looms and 

 Jacquard looms possess a great many more 

 sometimes as many as twenty-five or thirty. 



The harness in connection with the hand loom 

 is controlled by the action of the weaver's foot on 

 the treddles. The shuttle is propelled by hand, 

 and the stroke of the handle or batten, usually 

 hung from an elevated stand, is also made by 

 hand. 



OPERATION IN WEAVING 



In plain weaving all threads are drawn through 

 the harness shafts. In the middle of each harness 

 is a small eye, through which each individual 

 thread is drawn, the thread passing through the 

 harness shafts alternately. On the front harness 

 shaft you will find one of these and another on the 

 back. This enables one-half of the threads to be 

 raised in one pick of filling. This pick simply 

 lays in the filling thread, which is accomplished by 

 the shuttle passing between; the first harness is 

 lowered while the second harness is raised, and 

 another pick of filling is inserted. This operation 

 goes on, one thread at a time, until the desired 

 length of cloth is woven. 



By raising the warp threads in the fabric diagon- 

 ally, we have still a higher step in weaving. This 

 is known as drill or twill weaving. In drill weav- 

 ing three harnesses are used usually, and in twill 

 four or more. 



The making of sateen is another step in advance ; 

 here five or six, or even eight, harnesses are gener- 

 ally used, sometimes as many as twelve or four- 

 teen. You are familiar with the lustrous appear- 



