COTTON 325 



ance of this style of goods. This is obtained by 

 covering the intersections of warp and filling. 

 While sateen weaves are derived from twill weaves, 

 the threads are not raised as in twills. 



Standard gingham cloth is made from two colors 

 of warp and two colors of filling, checked with one 

 another. They are made in various colors : black 

 and white, brown and white, green and white, and 

 in other combinations of colors. These ginghams 

 are also used as the basis for plaids or over-checks, 

 so that in this kind of weaving many fancy effects 

 in colors are produced, requiring more skill for 

 operation, and enhancing the value of the woven 

 product. Fancy effects may be made in stripes, 

 checks, or figures. 



Mercerized cloth is also made of cotton, and 

 both plain and fancy effects may be made. The 

 silky appearance of the product is obtained by 

 immersing cotton threads in a solution of caustic 

 soda, and while thus immersed they are held very 

 tight. These threads are two ply, that is, two 

 twisted together. Before being immersed in the 

 caustic soda solution they are passed through a 

 gas frame (this being done very quickly, so as not 

 to injure the thread) to take off the roughness so 

 that the smooth texture may be obtained. In 

 weaving fancy goods threads may be drawn through 

 the harness shaft in any order, depending on the 

 pattern to be produced. 



There are many grades of fancy cloth produced, 

 depending upon the design, the quality of the 

 thread, number of harnesses the machine possesses, 

 and the skill of the operator. Weavers call the 

 machine that makes fancy goods a "Dobby." 



A still further advance in the production of 

 fancy cloth has come with the invention of the 



