\ DRAINING. 41 



^;llOuld be kept in order that the junctions may, at any tune, 

 be ascertained and rieadily opened should obstructions occur. 



In covering the drain, the first foot of earth should be put in 

 carefully, so that there may be no displacement of the tiles. 

 Never fill in with stones, as is the custom with many. The 

 water will enter at the bottom, and the water level be lowered to 

 the bottom of the drain. In clay soils auger holes should be 

 bored through the clay to some other soil at distances of not 

 more than one hundred feet. If there is no header used, {see 

 Plate 9,) the upper ends of the drains should be carefully pro- 

 tected with a brick or stone, in order that no soil may be 

 washed in, and particularly that neither moles, mice, or snakes, 

 may find lodgment in them. 



Of stone drains, only two styles that we have ever seen, are 

 worthy of consideration in these pages. In the one represented 

 in Fig. 7, the bottom is filled with cobble stones for a few 

 inches. These- are packed in with the pestle, forming a pretty 

 solid foundation. Flat stones are then set up against one side, 

 which is cut nearly perpendicular, other flat stones are leaned 

 against these from the opposite side, the joints being broken su? 

 in laying shingles. If the fall is made uniform, the cobble 

 stones packed evenly and hard, and the joints well broken, 

 these form very serviceable and durable drains. Where the 

 scones are to be had for the drawing, they are often the most 

 economical. Fig. 8 represents a drain made wholly of flat 

 stones, and explains itself. "Where the soil is firm, so that the 

 stones will not be swallowed up, these make an excellent sub 

 stitute for tile drains. 



Where a peat bog is at hand, peat tiles may be made to 

 answer the purposg of clay tiles. An open drain, from four 

 to six feet deep, should be cut into the swamp for a short 

 distance, and the surplus water removed. The upper surface 



