GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE MAKING. 569 



following spring. Eemember in taking up and cutting the 

 layers that the roots should be towards the parent vine, so that 

 • the sap will not have to go backwards. The further treatment 

 of these layers will be treated in remarks on transplanting 

 This same process of cutting down one cane and layering 

 another can be carried on so long as vines are wanted, provided 

 that every year the plant makes a vigorous growth of wood, 

 but if it does not it should have a year of rest. It is now three 

 years since we planted the original ten vines, and we have at 

 least one hundred and fifty vines ready for transplanting. Not 

 only will you have better plants, and at a less cost, than when 

 procured from a nursery, but you will have practical experience 

 of the habits of the vine that will be of value to you in future 

 cultivation. 



Transplanting should be done in the autumn, after the fall 

 of the leaf, except with tender varieties and extreme northern 

 latitudes. 



The vines, whether layers or cuttings, should be taken up very 

 carefully with a spading fork, preserving all the roots if possi- 

 ble. These roots can then be cut carefully and evenly. A 

 small portion of the roots, if well covered with fine fibrous root- 

 lets, will answer the purposes of the plant. If transplanted in 

 the spring the stem cane should be cut down to two buds, if in 

 the fall four should be left from which to select two in the 

 spring. Whether to be planted in the fall or no, it is better to 

 take up the plants, and cut back the head and roots in the fall, 

 which is also much the best time to get plants from the nursery. 

 These plants should be heeled in for the winter, which consists 

 in covering the roots and most of the stem with mellow earth 

 and straw to protect from frost. In transplanting, the roots 

 should be left exposed to the air as little as possible. 



The trench should be dug before the vines are taken up. 



