80 THE VOYAGE FROM NAPLES TO EAST AFRICA. 



as you like. We are somewhere east of Suez now, where ''there 

 ain't no ten commandments," and each man's personal opinion is his 

 own affair. 



It is very glaring, very hot on the water front of Aden, and the 

 prospect of a drive in one of the little, ramshackle, covered phaetons 

 will be alluring, even if the horses are poor, dilapidated, ill-fed 

 beasts who threaten to collapse bOfore getting half the way. The 

 callous indifference of the Orient to suffering in man or beast is 

 creeping into your blood. The easy brutality of the tropics is becom- 

 ing a part of you. Your grandfather was an abolitionist. Your 

 father was the president of the S. P. C. A., but you are beginning 

 to look on the clamorous encroaching crowd about you as "dirty 

 niggers" to be beaten away if necessary, while the mangy, ill-fed 

 cur who slinks from your path, and the gaunt, little horse who pre- 

 pares to drag you on the sandy road are alike objects of indifference 



to you. 



STATUE OF QUEEN VICTORIA. 



You are glad of the pith helmet you bought at Port Said, glad 

 of your thin white suit and the green-lined pongee umbrella your 

 friend from India advised you to get as your rickety vehicle crawls 

 noisily along the blazing, dusty stretch of road leading from the 

 landing place. A fine marble statue of Queen Victoria stands out 

 in the square, soaking in the hot sunshine till the stone surface fairly 

 seems to sizzle. Other ships from India, China and Australia are 

 in the harbor coaling, and their passengers are wandering about, 

 pursued by importunate natives. A few English officials pass from 

 building to building, so used both to natives and voyagers that they 

 do not give either even the most cursory glance. 



Leaving this part of Aden behind us, we creak out across a 

 bare tract toward the real Aden, which lies away from the harbor. 

 Such quaint equipages, such marvelous people we see on this road! 

 high, queer carts drawn by mules or camels, solitary horsemen on 

 long-tailed Arab steeds, shrouded pedestrians, Jews with greasy, 

 black curls and black head-pieces, turbaned specimens of every 

 species of Arab or Hindu, stately Persians, Africans of many tribes, 

 all are passing to and fro. 



