300 THE LOQUAT OR JAPANESE MEDLAR 



true to type. It is therefore always preferable to propa- 

 gate a desirable variety by budding or grafting on 

 ordinary loquat seedlings, and our gardeners now fre- 

 quently resort to budding for propagating the large- 

 fruited sorts as well as the seedless loquat. 



Budding is done at any time from April to Septem- 

 ber, shield budding being the method generally used. 

 Grafting may be done in September or October, or early 

 in March, the scion being selected of new wood, not 

 longer than 5 to 10 c. m. with a dormant terminal bud, 

 and is deprived of its foliage before grafting. 



CULTIVATION. This consists in digging the soil two 

 or three times a year to keep it open and clear of weeds. 

 The first tillage is done in October or November, the 

 second is done in December or January, and the third in 

 March or April. Trenching or deep tillage is carried out 

 every three or four years for the purpose of pruning or 

 cleaning the surface roots, and also to stir well the soil 

 and to bring down to the roots the surface layer of the 

 soil which has been mellowed and improved by the 

 action of the air. Some well-rotted manure may be 

 given, but sparingly, and the use of raw or unfermented 

 manure should be carefully avoided. A heap of fer- 

 menting manure which is allowed to remain for some 

 time close to a loquat is sure to cause the death of the 

 tree. The loquat requires to be watered as well as an 

 orange-tree, and irrigation should commence early in the 

 season, when the fruit is maturing. Regular watering 

 will promote the growth of the tree very markedly, 

 besides ensuring a better crop of fine fruits, and extends 

 the natural term of life of the tree. However, the loquat 

 is very sensible to the action of brackish water, particu- 

 larly in the hot days of summer, and hard water 

 containing much lime is also dangerous and should 

 be aerated in an open tank for two or three days 

 before use. 



