THE LEGHORNS 



as tine an appearance as your youngsters when fall ar- 

 rives. 



Your choice females should be treated in the same 

 manner. From what I have seen I am sure that many 

 breeders neglect this careful handling of old stock when 

 the breeding season is over. 



Conditioning for the Show Room 



The conditioning of Buff Leghorns for our big shows 

 begins when the chicks leave the shell; with the old stock, 

 when the breeding season is over. Chicks hatched from 

 prize matings — they are the ones from which you expect 



FIRST PRllE auFF LEGHORN COCKEREL, WINNER OF 

 SHAPE & COLOR SPECIAL, MADISON SQUARE GARbEN 1910. 

 Bred g^Owrvecj. E,-, 

 Wm. H-HEIL- R-F-l3-tt3. EASTON PA- 



A beautiful Buff Leghorn male in color, being an even 

 golden buff over neck, back and wing-bows; tail and wing 

 feathers solid buff. In shape this bird is excellent, coming 

 very close to the advanced type of the modern White Leg- 

 horn male. 



your next season's winners — ought to have extra care as 

 soon as hatched. Put a hen with some young ones in a 

 large grassy run with plenty of shade, for Bufifs must 

 have grass to run on and plenty of shade — the grass to 

 keep their legs yellow and in good condition and the shade 

 so they will not be bleached out when fall comes. 



When the chicks are about four months of age, se- 

 lect the choicest specimens and put them by themselves. 

 Do not allow a very promising cockerel to run with a 

 large number of males, as he is likely to lose a sickle, have 

 an ear-lobe torn or some such accident which would mar 

 him. Separate your pullets and cockerels as soon as pos- 

 sible. When the show season comes around, select the 

 pullets and cockerels which you have had in mind and put 

 them in your conditioning room, selecting three or four 

 more than the number you intend to show;. as often one 

 or more birds will go back at the last moment and then 

 you will be short a male or a female. I usually put my 



birds up a week before the show, as I find in that time I car> 

 have a bird about right. Begin by walking past the cage 

 and speaking to the birds. Do not start at once to handle 

 them, for if thoroughly frightened at the start it is a hard 

 matter to train them and training is half the battle. When 

 they become accustomed to your presence and voice, stop 

 in front of the cage and pass your hand over the outside 

 until they become quiet; then open the door and gradu- 

 ally get your hand near them. After awhile they will 

 allow you to smooth them and then I begin the course of 

 posing; that is, having them stand wherever you place 

 them with the head in any position you wish. You would 

 be surprised how much little things count with a judge. A 

 well-trained bird often catches the judge's eye, even if it 

 is a bit inferior to the one in the next coop that is un- 

 trained. 



The toilet of your birds is a most important factor. 

 I spend one-half hour each day on each bird. With a silk 

 handkerchief, beginning from the base of the comb, I rub 

 down with easy motion, covering every portion of the 

 bird. By the week's end the bird has a beautiful luster. 

 The legs are washed several times and every particle of 

 dirt is taken from beneath the scales. A very little sweet 

 oil, with a few drops of turpentine, is used to rub the legs 

 after each washing. This brings out the rich yellow. Be 

 careful not to rub too far up on the shanks and stain 

 the feathers. 



Before shipping look over the shanks and webs well 

 for stubs. Treat the comb with a very little oil and then 

 rub it well. Before putting the birds in the shipping coops 

 I give each a two-grain quinine pill. I find this is ex- 

 cellent to ward off colds. The shipping coops aie made 

 of light wood and the inside is lined with muslin to keep 

 off drafts or any dirt which may sift through the cracks. 

 Muslin also covers the top under the top slats. One can- 

 not be too careful of birds in transit. 



Feeding Show Birds 



The feeding of your birds while in training quarters 

 is quite a problem. I give them three meals a day. The 

 morning meal is a little scratching feed. At noon they 

 get a mash just moistened with scalded milk, at night, 

 cracked corn. During the day when training them I give 

 small bits of fresh meat or some green food. You will 

 find they will always be at the door expecting this or that 

 dainty. Never leave food in the cups. Give them a cer- 

 tain time to clean up their feed and if any is left take it 

 away. Many a bird has gone stale on his feed by having 

 it left before him. 



Conditioning Old Stock 



Now a few words about conditioning the old stock. 

 As soon as the breeding season is over I take the males 

 out of the breeding pens and put them in a cockerel 

 house. Each pen has a grassy run and the top is covered 

 with burlap so the sun cannot get on them. During the 

 time they remain in this house their legs are treated each 

 week in order to keep them in good condition and to 

 make it easy for them to shed their scales. The prize 

 hens are treated in the same way and when fall arrives 

 and you take the males and females out of summer quar- 

 ters you have birds with beautiful plumage, not bleached 

 out by the sun, with legs in fine shape and in sound 

 physical condition. 



The toilet of the old stock while in the conditioning 

 room, is the same as that of the youngsters. 



