APPLE 



APRICOT 



a band of wet clay was used, but moss is equally good 

 and much less trouble. This tied round so as to fully 

 cover the union and kept moist in dry weather will 

 generally lead to success in grafting, but we have seen 

 many failures, owing to the neglect of small details. A 

 most important point is to keep the scions quite fresh, 

 and in dry weather they should be covered with a 

 wet cloth. 



METHODS OF GROWING, TRAINING, &c. Apple trees 

 are adaptable to various forms of culture. For large 

 orchards standards were most favoured, with small bush 

 fruits such as Gooseberries and Currants growing between 

 them, but modern growers find that the bush and 

 pyramid trees are the most profitable. Messrs. Rivers 

 and Sons suggest that the pyramids or bush-trees, if 

 worked on the Paradise stocks, may be planted 9 feet 

 apart each way, and this will require 537 trees to plant 

 an acre. Bush fruits (Currants and Gooseberries) may 

 be planted between the rows at a distance 6 feet between 

 each plant. Apples on the Crab stock require more 

 room, and should have at least 12 feet each way between 

 the trees, and this will take 300 trees per acre. 



Standards. As stated above, these are not planted so 

 extensively as formerly ; yet in some positions they are 

 very useful, if only for decorative effect. Here it may be 

 noted that many hardy deciduous flowering trees are 

 planted for effect, yet as a rule fruit trees which are 

 equally beautiful when in flower, and more attractive 

 when they have a crop of bright, rosy- tin ted fruit, 

 rarely find a place except in the orchard or kitchen 

 garden. 



Espaliers. This is a term applied to trees trained with 

 horizontal growths running from a main upright stem. 

 They may be planted from 18 to 24 feet apart. The 

 foundation or first horizontal laterals are formed before 

 planting in a permanent position, after which the main 

 upright central growth should be cut back to secure 

 further side laterals ; the ultimate numbers usually 

 being four to six on either side of the main stem. And 

 after the trees are properly furnished all erect shoots 

 should be stopped back ; this will throw the vigour into 

 the horizontal branches. It is well known that sap, like 

 hot water, will rise to the highest point, but stop the 

 erect growths and the sap will flow horizontally. Espaliers 

 form useful divisions in various parts of the kitchen - 

 garden. Usually they are planted from 3 to 4 feet from 

 the walks, leaving a border for flowers grown for cutting 

 from, and vegetables are grown behind. 



Cordons. This term is applied to the trees trained 

 horizontally with a single stem, or they may be grown 

 obliquely or upright, but are confined to one or two 

 stems. Trees of this kind make a nice edging for borders ; 

 and for walls where there are buttresses, cordons can 

 be utilised with effect and profit. A cordon taken up 

 each buttress will cover the space which the ordinary 

 trained trees cannot be taken over. 



Planting. The earlier the trees can be planted after 

 the leaves are off in the autumn the better, yet planting 

 may be done up to the end of March. The first thing is 

 to have the ground properly prepared by trenching and 

 manuring; much will depend upon the nature of the 

 soil. In some instances very little manure, if any, will 

 be required, while some ground may have a liberal 

 dressing. It will depend entirely on the quality of the 

 ground, and also, to some extent, the sorts to be planted. 

 The vigorous growing sorts crop best on poor ground. 

 It is not necessary to trench the whole of the ground 

 when planting, but a good space say, 3 feet each way 

 from the stem should be well prepared. The trees if of 

 any size will require to have some of the strong roots 

 shortened back, and any roots that have been broken in 

 digging up the trees should be cut off clean. It is as 

 necessary to make clean cuts on the roots as it is when 

 pruning the tops. In planting, the hole should be made 

 wide, with a flat bottom. Spread the roots out evenly, 

 and work the soil well among them. Press it firmly and 

 cover all the roots, but do not plant too deeply. 

 Standards require stakes, and these should be driven 

 down deeply, so that they hold the trees firmly ; for if 

 the trees are not held in position the winds will twist 

 them about and loosen the roots before they are estab- 

 lished. Success depends greatly on a proper start. The 

 liberal use of lime on the surface will be beneficial and 

 go a great way towards eradicating vermin. It should 

 be added that in the process of planting care should be 



taken to prevent the roots getting dry. The fibrous or 

 most useful roots soon perish if exposed. 



Pruning. This is an important operation, especially 

 in the formation of young trees. Clean cuts close above 

 the wood bud is one great point. A shoot should be cut 

 from the back of the bud, a little below the level, bring- 

 ing the knife up to come out just above the bud. Canker 

 may often be traced to injudicious pruning. If cut as 

 above a callus will soon be formed, but when cut a little 

 distance above a wood bud, the portion of stem above 

 the bud will die back, and frequently leave a bad joint, 

 which will cause canker later on. In regard to the time 

 of pruning, winter pruning should be done as early as 

 possible after the leaves are off the trees, but it is often 

 left later. The advantage of early pruning is that the 

 buds plump up from the base of the shoots, and the 

 trees start more evenly. Methods of pruning depend 

 upon the growth of the trees and the form of training. 

 In the formation of bush trees the growths should be 

 thinned out from the centre. Thick, bunchy trees are 

 never satisfactory. Pyramids require to be headed back 

 until the lower lateral branches are well developed. A 

 pyramid may be grown to from 10 to 12 feet high, but this 

 must be accomplished by yearly growths. After the 

 trees are well built up it will only remain to cut back 

 all young shoots from year to year, or leaving any to fill 

 up vacancies, and it may occur that some of the main 

 branches require to be cut away where the trees get too 

 thick. The Espaliers and Cordons require what is 

 termed spur pruning that is, all growths cut back nearly 

 close to the main stems, except leaving the main lateral 

 shoot for extension where necessary. It is not advisable 

 to cut in too close. If a few buds are left the terminal 

 bud will grow and the lower ones form short flowering 

 spurs for the following year, and perhaps part of the old 

 wood may be cut back when pruning the following 

 year. 



Summer Pruning is sometimes recommended, but this 

 requires to be done with care, and should not be done 

 late in the season. Some of the surplus growths may be 

 cut away about July or earlier, and shoots shortened 

 back may form flowering spurs. When done too late 

 only soft, unripened growths are made, and this will be 

 of no use either for fruiting or for making the trees. 

 Careful observation is the best means of ascertaining 

 how to use the knife either for summer or winter pruning. 



Insect Pests and Fungoid Diseases. Apples are subject 

 to numerous insect pests, and also to fungoid diseases 

 these will be more fully dealt with under INSECT PESTS and 

 DISEASES ; but it may here be remarked that a thorough 

 spraying in the winter, and again soon after the fruits 

 are set, also a good dressing of lime on the ground, will 

 go a great way towards keeping off troublesome pests. 



Gathering Apples. The question often arises, When 

 should Apples be gathered ? Outside appearances are 

 rather deceiving. One of the best guides is to examine 

 the seeds. Colour varies a little, but when they are 

 dark brown or nearly black the Apples will be ripe 

 enough to gather. Yet it may not always be desirable 

 to gather as soon as the seeds have changed colour. If 

 the Apples are not falling off the trees it may be better 

 to leave them for a time, especially those that are to 

 be kept for some time after they are gathered. If 

 gathered before they are fully ripe they are liable to 

 shrivel. Keeping also makes some difference. In large 

 establishments a properly constructed fruit room is 

 available. Small growers may store them in a cellar if 

 there is not too much moisture, or any cool cupboard 

 where the change of outside temperature does not affect 

 them. Nothing should come in contact with the Apples 

 that is likely to affect the flavour. Dry, clean straw 

 may be used, or perfectly dry, clean boxes lined with 

 clean paper ; no printed paper should be employed. The 

 time of keeping much depends upon how the Apples are 

 handled. A very slight bruise will produce decay, and 

 one left among sound fruit will cause the rot to spread. 



APPLE BERRY. See BILLARDIERA. 



APPLE-BLOSSOM WEEVIL (Anthonomus pomorum). 

 Apple Mussel Scale (Aspidiotus conchiformis). Apple or 

 Codlin Grub (Carpocapsa pomonana). See INSECT PESTS. 



APRICOT. Pru'nus Artneni'aca. 

 VARIETIES : i. Early Masculine. End of July. The 

 best of the very early Apricots. Fruit rather small 



