BUCHNERA 



134 



BUDDING 



BUCHNE'RA VISCO'SA. See SPHENANDRA VISCOSA. 



BU'CIDA. Olive Bark- tree. (From bous, an ox ; in 

 reference to the fruit being like an ox's horn. Nat. 

 ord. Myrobolans [Combretaceffi]. Linn. lo-Decandria, 2- 

 Digynia. Now referred to Terminalia.) 



B. Bu'ceras (ox's-horn). See TERMINALIA BUCERAS. 

 BUCK-BEAN. Menya'nthes. 



BUCKLA'NDIA. (Named in compliment to Dr. 

 Buckland, Dean of Westminster. Nat. ord. Witch Hazels 

 [Hamamelidacea?].) 



Tall, evergreen, greenhouse shrub, with fine foliage in 

 the young state. Cuttings of mature shoots in sand, in- 

 serted in pots and placed in a close case, with gentle 

 heat. Fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand. 



#. popu'lnea (poplar-like). 100. Leaves large, heart- 

 shaped, purple when young. Stipules large, red. 

 Himalayas. 1875. 



BUCKLER MUSTARD. Biscutt'lla. 



BUCKLE'YA. (A commemorative name. Nat. ord. 

 Santalaceae.) 



A hardy shrub of slender and graceful habit, with 

 spreading branches, furnished with light-green foliage. 

 A plant for the shrubbery in well-drained, good garden soil. 



B, distichophy'lla (two-row-leaved). 10 to 12. Flowers 

 and fruit inconspicuous. N. Amer. 



BUCKTHORN. Rha'mnus. 



BUCKWHEAT. See Fagopy'rum escule'ntum. 



BUCKWHEAT-TREE. Myloca'ryum. 



BUD. The buds are organised parts of a plant, of 

 an oval, round, or conical form, and containing the 

 rudiments of future branches, leaves, and flowers, which 

 remain without breaking, on producing them, until cir- 

 cumstances favour their development. The same buds, 

 accordingly, as circumstances vary, produce either 

 flowers or leaves. Buds spring from the alburnum, to 

 which they are always connected by central vessels. 

 Buds are formed, at first, only in the axils of leaves, 

 that is, in the angle between the leaf and the branch ; 

 but, if these buds are destroyed, what are termed adven- 

 titious or latent buds are formed, yet chiefly in the neigh- 

 bourhood of the regular buds, or from latent buds that 

 were at one time truly axillary. 



BUDDING is the art of making a bud unite to the 

 stem or branch (then called the stock) of another tree 

 or shrub, independently of its parent. The object thus 

 attained is a rapid multiplication of that parent, and, in 

 the case of seedlings, an earlier production of fruit than 

 if the buds were left upon the parent. Delicate kinds are 

 strengthened by being worked, as it is technically termed, 

 upon more robust stocks, as when a tender vine is 

 budded on the Syrian, and the Double Yellow Rose 

 upon the common China. Variegated roses often lose 

 their distinctive marks if grown upon their own roots. 

 Some roses, budded upon the common briar, afford finer 

 flowers than upon their own stems. Buds from seedling 

 peaches and pears are earlier productive, and produce 

 finer fruit, if budded upon a robust stock ; but buds of 

 the pear, inserted earlier than the close of August, 

 produce branches, and not blossoms. Where the bud 

 comes in contact with the wood of the stock, a confused 

 line is visible, between which line and the bark of the 

 bud new wood is produced, having solely all the char- 

 acteristics of the parent of the bud. Buds of almost 

 every species succeed with most certainty if inserted in 

 shoots of the same year's growth ; but the small walnut- 

 buds succeed best which are taken from the base of 

 the annual shoots, where these join the year-old wood 

 of that from which the bud is taken. Buds are usually 

 two years later than grafts in producing fruit ; but then 

 every bud will produce a new plant ; while each graft 

 has at least three upon it. Buds succeed more readily 

 than grafts ; and, if a graft inserted in the spring has 

 failed, a bud may succeed in the summer of the same 

 year. Buds are ready for removal when their shield, 

 or bark attached to them, separates readily from the 

 wood. This is usually in July or August, and is inti- 

 mated by the buds being well-developed in the axils of 

 the present year's leaves. Scallop-budding may be done 



almost at any season. Buds should be taken from the 

 middle of the shoot ; those from its point are said to 

 make wood too freely, and those from the base to be 

 more unexcitable, and, consequently, less prompt to 

 vegetate. 



Stocks for budding may be much smaller than for 

 grafting, even on the same year's shoot. Several buds 

 may be inserted on older branches, and thus a good head 

 be obtained sooner. On stocks of long-standing, scallop- 

 budding is to be adopted. Just after rain, and when 

 there is no violent wind, is a time to be preferred for 

 budding. Whatever mode of budding is adopted, quick- 

 ness in the operation is indispensable ; for, if the wound 

 in the stock or that of the bud becomes dry, the budding 

 will fail. The bark of the stock should be cut and 

 raised first, and, if possible, on its north side. A piece 

 of moist bast may be twisted over the wound whilst the 

 bud is preparing ; and the moment this is done it should 

 be inserted, and the ligature put on forthwith. 



The following practical details of budding fruit-trees 

 and roses details applicable to all other trees and 

 flowering-shrubs capable of being thus propagated we 

 have copied from the pages of The Cottage Gardener : 



If the bark does not rise well, that is, does not part 

 freely from the wood, the buds will not succeed. 



A good budding-knife is the first thing to be pro- 

 vided : any respectable nurseryman will furnish this. 

 Next, some really good matting : we prefer the new 

 Cuba bast ; but the finest of the ordinary Russian mats 

 will answer equally well, perhaps better, provided the 

 material is very fine and very tough cotton is often used. 



The bast must be cut into lengths, and adapted to the 

 size of the stocks, be they what they may. A mere 

 novice may soon determine the length necessary, by 

 twisting a piece round any twig of similar size, as in 

 the act of budding. 



Before describing the process itself, it will be well to 

 speak of the condition of the stocks, or subjects to be 

 operated on. Budding, as before observed, is performed 

 at various seasons ; and in very early budding, it is 

 considered, in the majority of cases, prudential, if not 

 absolutely necessary, to insert the whole of the shield, 

 or bud, with its own system of wood attached. When 

 the summer is far advanced, however, and the buds are 

 become individually perfect, or nearly so, in their 

 organisation, the case alters ; and the less of intervening 

 matter there exists between the bud and its immediate 

 appurtenances of petiole and bark, the better. 



Budding, then, in spring or early summer, is generally 

 accompanied, it may be presumed, by a copious current 

 of sap. Not so, however, late summer-budding on all 

 occasions ; for the season may have been unusually 

 warm and dry ; the stock, or subject, may be short of 

 sap, or, in other words, be beset with a paralysed root- 

 action : all these are impediments. A copious water- 

 ing, the evening previous to the process, will, however, 

 promote the free rising of the bark, on which so much 

 depends. In addition to this, a cloudy day is preferable 

 to a sunny one. 



In former days the chief criterion of the eligibility of a 

 tree for the budding- process was the cessation of growth, 

 or rather, of extension in point of length, in the stock. 

 Such generally happens in fruit-trees such as the peach, 

 apricot, cherry, plum, &c. about the first or second 

 week in August ; the period, of course, being liable to 

 be modified by several circumstances, as heat, drought, &c. 

 Instead, however, of thus waiting until the eleventh 

 hour, it is better to make an earlier commencement ; 

 and there is little occasion to delay after the middle of 

 July has passed, unless the stocks, or scions, are subjects 

 of late growth and excessive luxuriance. 



The exact position of the bud being determined, the 

 incision is made across the stock transversely, in length 

 sufficient to create an opening for the bud. This slit 

 forms the head of the incision, which, when the next 

 slit is made, will form the letter T- In making this 

 slit, or incision, a somewhat bold cut must be made ; 

 in fact, the point of the knife must be made to reach 

 the surface of the wood of the stock. 



The perpendicular slit is made from the bottom up- 

 wards ; and an experienced budder gives a peculiar 

 flirt, or jerk, to the knife when he approaches the head 

 of the T. This jerk at once rifts up the bark better 

 than any slower process could do it ; and the haft of 

 the budding-knife is in a moment turned round, and 



