BUDDING 



135 



BUDDLEIA 



the point introduced ; and, by pressing it close to the 

 wood, right and left, the bark is, as it were, ploughed 

 up, or liberated from the wood. 



All is now ready for the reception of the bud, which 

 is, indeed, by most good budders, prepared first, as 

 follows : The cutting, or shoot, of the kind to be in- 

 serted, being wood of the current year's growth, is 

 generally kept in a waterpot, first cutting off all the 

 leaves : care must, however, be taken to leave most of 

 the petiole (leaf-stalk) to handle the bud by. This, also, 

 doubtless assists in forming a speedy union. 



The bud, with its bark and a little of the wood of the 

 tree, is then cut off in the form of a shield ; and the 

 point of the knife and thumb-nail of the right hand, 

 by a little nice handling, are made to remove the portion 

 of woody matter from the centre. The bud is instantly 

 introduced beneath the bark in the T incision of the 

 stock, where, as before observed, it is found in the same 

 relation to the stock, or stem, of its new parent as 

 existed between it and the shoot whence it sprang. This 

 done, it is carefully and closely, but not tightly, bound 

 with the bast. The operator generally beginning to 

 bind at the lower end, gives an extra tug with the mat 

 when he comes tolerably close to the lower end of the 

 petiole. This is an old practice, and not particularly 

 intelligible ; the meaning, we suppose if meaning it 

 have being, that the tightness of the ligature in that 

 precise position impedes slightly the returning sap, 

 thereby concentrating it about the bud. 



Some persons employ a grafting wax to cover the parts 

 where air may enter. The following mixture will make 

 a very useful kind : Sealing-wax, one part ; mutton 

 fat, one part ; white wax, one part ; honey, one-eighth 

 part. The white wax and fat are first melted, and then 

 the sealing-wax is to be added, gradually, in small 

 pieces, the mixture being kept constantly stirred ; lastly, 

 the honey must be put in, just before taking it off the 

 fire. It should be poured into paper or tin moulds, and 

 kept slightly agitated till it begins to congeal. 



We before observed, that when the season is late, 

 and the bark rises somewhat badly, it may be excited to 

 rise. A liberal watering with liquid-manure, of the tem- 

 perature of 90, the day before the operation, will, in 

 general, facilitate the proceeding. When the bud, or 

 shield, after the wood is removed, appears hollow at 

 the bud part, it is commonly rejected. Such are not 

 always barren ; but they are apt to lie dormant for a 

 year or two. 



When a choice of position offers itself, we prefer the 

 shady side of the stock. It is of more importance, how- 

 ever, to select a clear portion of the stem, free from 

 knots, although some fancy the bud takes better if 

 placed in a position from whence a natural bud has been 

 removed. It should be taken as a maxim, that only 

 those buds should be selected, the leaves of which have 

 become fully developed ; the leaf, also, should, if pos- 

 sible, be unblemished. 



Cloudy weather is, in all cases, to be preferred to 

 sunny periods. 



For budding Roses, and, indeed, for all budding, the 

 best time of the day is either early in the morning, at 

 least as early as seven o'clock A.M., or after three o'clock 

 in the afternoon ; cloudy, moist days are most suitable. 



Cut off the head of the stocks, if not done previously 

 at the time of planting, and all side branches except 

 three, that is, for standards ; unless growing very 

 vigorously it is best to leave these side branches full 

 length, if the season has advanced to August or Sep- 

 tember, to prevent the buds inserted from starting into 

 growth at so late a period. In spring, if the buds are 

 still alive, shorten the branches to three or four inches, 

 and this will encourage the inserted buds to start into 

 growth. Go over them again in ten days' time and 

 remove any buds of the stock which may be growing. 

 This will throw all the energy of the stock into the shoots 

 of the rose budded upon it. Until these get quite strong 

 they may be tied to the snags of the stock to guard 

 against breakage by the wind. 



In the case of dwarf roses, remove the soil from the 

 base of the stocks so that the buds may be inserted 

 about two inches below the ground level. Leave them 

 uncovered till the buds inserted have made some inches 

 of growth. In the case of tender roses the buds may 

 be protected in winter by some dry bracken. If the 

 buds are inserted in July they will commence growing 



and may even bloom in September, in which case the 

 soil at the base may be returned. The buds should 

 remain dormant all winter, if inserted in August or Sep- 

 tember. There is no necessity for cutting back the 

 stocks till growth recommences in spring ; indeed, the 

 leafy branches upon them serve to keep the inserted 

 buds dormant till spring, and injury to unripened wood 

 in winter is thus avoided. 



The process of budding is the same as for fruit-trees, 

 but in the case of standard Roses, select a position for 

 the cut as close to the main stem as possible, but on the 

 base of the three young branches. In the case of dwarfs 

 select a clean part of the bark of the main stem of the 

 stock, as above advised. The incision should be about 

 an inch long, lengthwise on the branch. Cut a cross 

 just at the top of this incision, and a little wider 

 than the bark of the bud to be inserted. Then 

 take off the bud, previously cutting off the leaf, 

 leaving part of the leaf-stalk. Cut away with the bud 

 a portion of the bark from the parent stem, which is 

 technically called the shield of the bud, and a portion of 

 wood with it. This bud, and the bark and wood with 

 it, should be, altogether, rather more than three-quarters 

 of an inch long. Turn the bud over between your finger 

 and thumb, and dexterously take out the greater part 

 of the wood ; but be careful to leave the wood full in 

 the eye of the bud. Then raise one side of the bark of 

 the incision, in the shape of a T made in the stock, and 

 with the ivory handle of the budding-knife slip in one 

 side of the bark attached to the bud, then turn your 

 knife, and lift up the other side of the incision, and the 

 bud will drop into its place. Press the bark of the bud 

 to the farther end of the incision ; and if any projects 

 beyond the cross incision on the stock cut it off. Then 

 tie with worsted neatly, and the operation is complete. 

 The covering of the buds with leaves is not now prac- 

 tised, except in very rare cases. We feel it almost im- 

 possible to give instruction to be understood, in words 

 only, for such a complex operation. We have, there- 

 fore, given the details minutely, to enable the reader 

 to follow out this interesting process. 



BUDDLETA. (Named after A. Buddie, an English 

 botanist. Nat. ord. Loganiads [Loganiaceae]. Linn. 

 \-Tetrandria, i-Monogynia.) 



Warm greenhouse evergreen shrubs, except where 

 otherwise specified. B. globo'sa, the best hardy species, 

 requires a dry, sheltered situation in the north of the 

 island. Seeds are sometimes procured in the south of 

 England, and should be sown in the spring following. 

 Plants are also easily procured from well-ripened cuttings, 

 placed under handlights, in September, and slightly pro- 

 tected during winter frosts. The greenhouse and stove 

 species may all be propagated freely from cuttings ; 

 and, for general management, the latter merely require 

 a higher temperature than the former. 



B. albiflo'ra (white-flowered). Lilac, with yellow eye< 



Central China. 1902. Hardy. 

 america'na (American). 10. Yellow. August. S. 



Amer. 1826. 

 asia'tica (Asian). White, fragrant. E. Ind. 1874. 



Greenhouse. 

 auricula' ta (eared). Cream, in globular heads. S. 



Africa. 1881. Greenhouse. 



brasilie'nsis (Brazilian). 10. Orange. Brazil. 1822. 

 ca'rnea (flesh-coloured). See B. CURVIFLORA CARNEA. 

 Colu'mbia (Columba's). White. Temperate S. 



Amer. (?). 1901. 

 Colvi'llei (Colville's). Rose-coloured. Himalayas. 



First flowered. 1891. Greenhouse. 

 conna'ta (base-joined-fcawd). 5. Orange. May. 



Peru. 1826. 



,, cri'spa (crisp-leaved). See B. PANICULATA. 

 curviflo'ra (curved-flower spiked). Rosy-violet. China. 



1870. Hardy. 



,, ca'rnea (flesh-coloured). Pale lilac. 1879. Hardy. 

 diversifo'lia (various-leaved). See NICODEMIA DIVER- 

 SI FOLIA. 

 globo'sa (globe- flowered). 15. Orange. May. Chili. 



1774. Hardy shrub. 

 heterophy'lla (variable-leaved). See B. MADAGASCARI- 



ENSIS. 



insi'gnis (remarkable). See B. JAPONICA INSIONIS. 

 interme'dia (intermediate). Garden hybrid (curvi- 

 ftora X lindleyana). 1873. 



