CHRYSANTHEMUM 



209 



CHRYSOCOMA 



C. se'getum grandiflo'rum (large-flowered). Garden 

 variety. 1888. 



,, setabf'nse (Setaban). Spain and Portugal. 



Sfbtho'rpii (Sibthorp's). See C. VISCOSUM. 



sine'nse (Chinese). 3. Variegated. October. China. 

 1764. 



sinua'tum (indented), i. White. Siberia. 1824. 



specio'sum (showy). See C. CORONARIUM. 



,, starckia'num (Starckian). i. White. June. Cau- 

 casus. 1897. 



sylvc'stre (wood). See C. LEUCANTHEMUM. 



tanacetifo'lium (tansy-leaved). i. .White. Asia 

 Minor. 1818. 



Tanacftum (Tanacetum). See TANACETUM VULGARE. 



Tchihatchtw'ii (Tchihatcheffs). See MATRICARIA 



TCHIHATCHEWII. 



tomento'sum (felted). |. White. Corsica. 1910. 



transilie'nse (beyond Troy). Turkestan. 



tri' color (three-coloured). See C. CARINATUM. 



triparti'tum (three-lobed-leaved) . See C. INDICUM. 



uligino'sum (marsh). 4 to 5. White. September. 



E. Europe. 1816. 



visco'sum (clammy), ij. Yellow. S. Europe. 

 Zawa'dskii (Zawadsky's). i. White.. Eastern 



Europe. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM as a Florisfs Flower. This is the 

 C. sine'nse and its varieties. 



Propagation by Cuttings. The best time is the first 

 week in February. Take off the young shoots three 

 inches long, and, with a sharp knife, cut off the lower 

 leaves ; insert the cuttings round the edge of a five-inch 

 pot, numbering each kind as they are put in, to prevent 

 mistakes. Use a light, sandy loam, with a thin layer of 

 pure sand on the surface. Give a gentle watering, to 

 settle the earth closely to the cuttings. Place them upon 

 a heated surface of either coal- ashes or river-sand. 

 Cover them with a hand-glass, and they will soon emit 

 roots. When rooted, pot them immediately into small 

 pots, and replace them under the hand-glasses. As soon 

 as the roots reach the sides of the pots, re-pot them 

 immediately. Cramping the roots in small pots is very 

 injurious. Then place them either on a shelf near the 

 glass of a good greenhouse, or, which is better, place 

 them in a cold frame, well protected from frost and damp. 

 For dwarf pot plants cuttings may be taken about the 

 time the buds begin to form, and with a little bottom- 

 heat, with shade, they will root in a few days, and should 

 be removed to an exposed position as soon as they are 

 started. Most of the early sorts may be grown as dwarf 

 plants by stopping them, and some of the later sorts 

 may be treated in the same manner. 



By Seeds. The seed must be saved as soon as it is 

 ripe, and only from such as are of a fine shape, and 

 bright, clear colour. Sow the seeds early in the year, 

 very slightly covered with soil, finely sifted, in shallow, 

 wide pots. Place them in a gentle heat, giving very 

 gentle waterings, when dry, with a fine-rosed watering- 

 pot. As soon as the seedlings have two or three leaves 

 each, transplant them singly into small pots, keeping 

 them in a temperature of 55 to 60 ; re- pot when 

 required. Some of them may flower, if well grown, the 

 same season. Treat them exactly like the old varieties, 

 and they will all flower the second year. 



Soil. As these plants are gross feeders, they require 

 a very rich compost. Half light loam, half decayed 

 dung, with a fourth of peat added, will grow them strong, 

 and flower them well. 



Summer Culture commences in April. Such as are 

 intended to bloom in pots should now have large shifts 

 out of their small pots into three sizes larger. For 

 cuttings struck the same season, the blooming-pots 

 should be at least nine inches' diameter, but for plants 

 a year older, they should be twelve inches. At every 

 potting stop all the shoots, to cause them to branch 

 early, and form dwarf, compact bushes. Give up 

 stopping at the last shift, which should not be done 

 later than the middle of June. Tie the branches out, so 

 as to give as much room and air to each as possible, 

 consistent with forming a handsome plant. Thin the 

 buds of such as are intended for exhibition, to cause 

 large flowers. During the whole season of growth give 

 abundance of water. Every week give them one water- 

 ing with liquid-manure. Never allow them to flag from 

 ike first re-potting up to the finishing bloom. Water them 



over head, in hot weather, at least twice a day. The 

 proper situation to place them at this season (from May 

 till they bloom) is on a bed of ashes or gravel, in an 

 open situation. As soon as the buds begin to open, 

 remove them into the greenhouse, giving them as much 

 space as possible, or the lower leaves will drop off. 

 Continue an abundant supply of water till the blooming 

 season is over. 



Winter Culture. When the flowers are all decayed, 

 cut down the blooming shoots, and place the pots in a 

 cool pit, giving only just water enough to keep the 

 plants alive during the winter ; and, as they are nearly 

 hardy, they do not require much protection : a mat or 

 two thrown over the glass in very severe frost will be 

 quite sufficient. 



These old plants are the best to plant out in the open 

 border. In the southern counties Chrysanthemums 

 bloom very finely, either in the open borders or against 

 a wall or low paling, and, during the months of October 

 and November, make a fine display. 



Insects. The green fly is the most troublesome, and, 

 where it is allowed to prevail greatly, will quite destroy 

 the bloom. It is easily destroyed, in the open air, by 

 dipping the ends of the shoots in tobacco-water, and, 

 in the greenhouse, by filling it completely with the 

 smoke of tobacco, or the more modern fumigants. 



Diseases. These are such robust, hardy plants that 

 they are seldom troubled with any diseases. The only 

 one that is dangerous is mildew on the leaves, produced 

 by a damp, cold atmosphere before they are brought 

 into the greenhouse. The only remedy is dusting the 

 parts where it appears with flowers of sulphur. The 

 leaf miner has proved troublesome in recent years. The 

 best remedy for this is a mild solution of paraffin; the 

 leaves being of a woolly nature it must be used with care. 

 A slight syringing periodically will keep the small black 

 flies, which deposit their eggs hi large quantities, off the 

 plants and kill any that may be about. 



Much more might be written about the Chrysanthe- 

 mums, but as all catalogues and other books on the 

 subject are published, it is not necessary. 



CHRYSE'IS. See ESCHSCHOLTZIA. 

 CHRYSI'PHIALA. See STENOMESSON. 

 CHRYSITHIALA LATIFO LIA. See URCEOLINA LATI- 



FOLIA. 



CHRYSOBA'CTRON. See BULBINELLA. 



CHRYSOBA'LANUS. Cocoa Plum. (From chrusos, 

 gold, and balanos, an acorn ; in reference to the colour 

 of the drupes, or berries. Nat. ord. Chrysobalans [Rosa- 

 cea?]. Linn. i2-Icosandria, i-Monogynia.) 



Layers ; also cuttings of half-ripened shoots hi sand, 

 under glass. Loam and peat. Common greenhouse and 

 cool stove treatment. 

 C. Ica'co (Icaco). 15. White. W. Ind. 1752. Stove 



evergreen. 



oblongifo'lius (oblong- leaved). 3. White. May. 

 Georgia. 1812. Greenhouse evergreen. 



CHRYSO'COMA. Goldy-locks. (From chrusos, gold, 

 and kome, hah* ; in reference to the yellow florets. Nat. 

 ord. Composites [Composite]. Linn. ig-Syngenesia, 

 i-jEqualis. Allied to Solidago.) 



Hardy herbaceous species by divisions, hi March. 

 Common soil. Greenhouse species by cuttings of half- 

 ripe shoots hi April, under a glass, hi sand. Loam and 

 a little peat. Whiter temp., 35 to 45. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS. 



C. bifto'ra (two-flowered). See ASTER ACRIS. 

 dracunculoi' des (tarragon-like). See ASTER ACRIS. 

 Lino'syris (flax-leaved). See ASTER LINOSYRIS. 

 nuda,'ta (naked). See BIGELOVIA NUDATA. 

 villo'sa (\oug-ha.iKd-leaved) . See ASTER VILLOSUS. 

 virga'ta (twiggy). See BIGELOVIA NUDATA. 



GREENHOUSE EVERGREENS. 



C. ce'rnua (dropping). See C. COMA-AUREA CERNUA. 

 cilia'ta (hair-fringed-kav0. 4. White. August. 



Cape of Good Hope. 1759. 



Co'ma-au'rea (golden-hair). ij. Yellow. July 

 Cape of Good Hope. 1731. 



