DAHLIA 



275 



DAHLIA 



cut down by frost, must be taken up and plunged in 

 dry soil. 



D. arbo'rea (tree-like). Trop. Amer. 

 ,, Barktfria (Miss Barker's). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 Ceruante'sii (Cervantes'). See D. COCCIXEA. 

 ., cocci' nea (scarlet). Scarlet. August to October. 



Mexico. 

 ., aura'ntia (orange-coloured). 6. Orange. October. 



Mexico. 1802. 

 cro'cea (saffron). 6. Yellow. October. Mexico. 



1802. 

 lu'Ua (yellow). 6. Sulphur. October. Mexico. 



1803. 



croca'ta (rusty). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 ,, exce'lsa (tall). 30. Purple. Mexico. 1834. 

 ,, ,, anemonaflo'ra (anemone-flowered). 30. Light. 



September. Mexico. 1830. 

 ,, frustra'nea ( barren-ray ed). See D. COCCINEA, 

 glabra'ta (smooth). See D. MERCKII. 

 gra'cilis (graceful). 4. Scarlet, yellow. October. 



Mexico. 1873. 



flo're-ple'no (double-flowered). 1888. 

 .. supe'rba (superb). Crimson-scarlet. 1881. 

 ., imperia'lis (imperial). 8 to 12. Rose or white, yellow. 



October. Mexico. 1863. 

 Juare'rii or Yuare'sii (Juarez's). Crimson. August 



to October. Mexico. 1879. The Cactus Dahlia. 

 lu'Ua (yellow). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 ,, mavimilia'na (Maximilian). 7. Mauve. Mexico. 

 Me'rckii (Merck's). 2 to 3. Lilac and yellow. August. 



to October. Mexico. 1839. 

 ,, decaisnea'na (Decaisnean). Purple, yellow. 



Mexico. 1864. 



pinna'ta (pinnate). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 ,. scapi'gera (tong-flower-stemmed). 2. White. June. 



Mexico. 1837. 



ste'Ua-bia'nca (white star). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 supe'rflua (superfluous). See D. VARIABILIS. 

 variabilis (variable). Many shades of colour. Mexico. 



1789. 



,, viridiflo'ra (green-flowered). Flower-head con- 

 sisting of green bracts. 1886. 

 ., Yuare'zii (Yuarez's). See D. JUARESII. 



DAHLIA AS A FLORIST'S FLOWER. The innumer- 

 able varieties in our gardens are the descendants of 

 D. variabilis. 



Propagation by Cuttings. The time for striking these 

 extends from January to April. The young shoots that 

 spring from the tubers make the best cuttings, and are 

 the most sure to grow ; but cuttings of the young tops 

 will strike root if care is taken not to overwater them till 

 they form a callus preparatory to emitting roots. This 

 is an advantage in the case of new and scarce varieties 

 of which it is desired to get up a stock as quickly as 

 possible. If the shoots are few or only one, two buds 

 must be left at the base, and they will give rise to other 

 shoots which may, in turn, be taken off and rooted. 

 The cuttings, or slips, must be put in pots filled with 

 light earth, with a layer of pure white sand on the surface, 

 and placed in a gentle hotbed. If the pot of cuttings 

 can be plunged in coal-ashes, or other material, the 

 cuttings will strike the sooner ; water very moderately 

 and carefully, and shade from bright sun. They will 

 strike root in a fortnight or three weeks, and should be 

 immediately potted in sj-inch pots, and kept close for 

 a few days, till they make a few more roots. They may 

 then be placed in a cold frame, shaded from the sun, 

 and protected from frost and wet. Pot them again into 

 4^-inch pots, before the roots become matted, and then 

 begin to give air daily, and keep them well watered. 



By Division. The roots may be divided from the 

 crown downwards, taking care to have a bud or two to 

 each division. Pot them, if too early to plant out, or 

 plant the division out at once in their places, but not 

 earlier than the middle of April. Harden off the plants 

 in frames, first by giving plenty of air, then by taking 

 the lights off during the day, and finally by standing 

 them in a sheltered place out of doors. It is seldom 

 safe to plant them out before the first or second week 

 of J une because of late frosts. 



By Seed. Save the seed from such double flowers as 

 are partially fertile, having bright distinct colours 

 and good form. Gather it as soon as ripe, and hang 

 the heads up in a dry place. When the scales of the 



head turn brown, separate the seeds, dry them in the 

 sun in the morning only, and when dry store them in a 

 dry room. Sow them in March, in shallow pans, ar.d 

 transplant the seedlings singly into small pots. As soon 

 as the frosts are passed plant them out a foot apart 

 every way, and allow them to flower. All bad-shaped 

 or dull-coloured throw away ; there is no hope of their 

 improving by culture. Such as have good-formed petals 

 and bright colours, though not perfectly double, may be 

 kept another year for a further trial ; and such as are 

 excellent should be propagated from the young tops, 

 to preserve the kinds, as the old root might perish. 



Soil. The dahlia requires a rich, deep, friable soil ; 

 and, as the branches are heavy and brittle, a sheltered 

 situation should be chosen, neither top low nor top high. 

 The ground should be trenched, if it will allow it, eighteen 

 inches or two feet deep, a good coating of well-decomposed 

 dung spread on the surface after the trenching is com- 

 pleted, and immediately dug in one spit deep. Lay the 

 soil so mixed up in slight ridges, to be levelled down 

 just before planting. This is best done in autumn or 

 early winter. If the soil is sandy or gravelly, it will 

 help the Dahlias to make good growth if some well- 

 rotted cow manure is dug into the bottom of the holes 

 taken out for planting them. 



Summer Culture. The season for planting is as soon 

 as there is no fear of any more frost. To grow them 

 fine, and to obtain high colours, they should have 

 plenty of room between each plant five feet apart every 

 way for the dwarf-growing kinds, and six feet for the 

 tall ones, will not be too much. It is a good method to 

 have the places for each marked out, by driving in the 

 stakes in the exact places first, and then there is no 

 danger of the stakes injuring the roots. As late frosts 

 might possibly occur, it is safe to cover the plants at 

 night with clean empty garden-pots of a sufficient size 

 to cover them without touching the leaves, until all 

 fear of frost has subsided. When the plants have ob- 

 tained a considerable growth, cover the surface round 

 each plant with some half-rotted, littery stable-dung ; 

 this will preserve them from drought, and afford nutri- 

 ment when the plants are watered. 



Tying is a very important operation. As soon as the 

 plants are high enough, they should be tied to the stakes 

 with some rather broad shreds of soft bass matting ; and 

 the side-shoots must also be secured by longer pieces of 

 matting, to prevent the winds and heavy rains from 

 breaking them off. It may sometimes be necessary to 

 place three or four additional stakes at a certain distance 

 from the central one, to tie the side-branches to. The 

 best kind of stakes are the thinnings of larch plantations ; 

 but oak, ash, sweet chestnut or hazel stakes will also 

 serve. Square stakes, planed and painted green are 

 neatest, and in some districts the only ones obtainable. 

 They should be stout, and six or seven feet long, at least 

 in the case of the taller growing varieties. As the 

 plants grow, if the weather is hot and dry, abundance of 

 water should be supplied. 



Protecting the Flowers. This will be necessary if in- 

 tended for exhibition. Caps of oiled canvas stretched 

 upon a wire frame are very good for the purpose ; even 

 a common garden-pot turned upside down is no bad 

 shelter. They may easily be suspended over each 

 flower by being fastened to a stake, and the flower 

 gently brought down and tied to the stake under them. 

 The best shade, however, is a square box with a glass 

 front, and a slit at the bottom to allow the stem of the 

 flower to slide into it, and thus bring the flower within 

 the box. The flower then has the advantage of light 

 and air, and is still protected from the sun, wind, and 

 rain. 



Winter Treatment. As soon as the autumn frosts 

 have destroyed the tops of the plants, cut down the 

 stems, and take up the roots immediately. If the roots 

 come up clean out of the ground, they will only require 

 gently drying, and may be stored at once in some place 

 where they will be safe from frost. If the soil clings 

 much to the tubers, these should be washed and dried, 

 and then stowed away. The place should not only be 

 free from frost, but from damp also, yet not so dry as to 

 cause them to shrivel up too much. It is a good plan 

 to have two or three of each kind struck late and kept 

 in pots through the winter. If kept in small pots and 

 plunged in coal cinders, sifted to take out the dust, they 

 will not require much attention during the summer, 



