HEATHS 



413 



HEATHS 



Certain plants flourish in hot-water springs, of which 

 the temperature varies between the scalding heats of 

 from 150 to 180 of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; and 

 others have been found growing freely on the edges of 

 volcanoes, in an atmosphere heated above the boiling- 

 point of water. Indeed, it is quite certain that most 

 plants will better bear, for a short time, an elevated 

 temperature, which, if long continued, would destroy 

 them, than they can a low temperature. Thus a tem- 

 perature a little above the freezing-point of water, to 

 orchidaceous and other tropical plants, is generally fatal 

 if endured by them for only a few minutes ; whereas a 

 considerable elevation above a salutary temperature is 

 rarely injurious to plants. But this is not universally 

 the case ; for the elegant Pri'mula margina'ta is so im- 

 patient of heat, that, although just about to bloom, it 

 never opens a bud if brought into a room in which there 

 is a fire. 



The temperature should always be regulated, in our 

 hothouses, with a due regard to the light. At night it 

 should be so low as to put the circulation of the sap into 

 a comparative state of rest ; and in dull days the tempera- 

 ture should be full 10 lower than in those of bright sun- 

 shine. 



See ERI'CA. 



Propagation: by Cuttings. In order to be successful 

 in striking the hard-wooded heaths, it is necessary to put 

 a plant of each kind in gentle heat, to cause them to 

 push forth young shoots. Whilst they are growing, the 

 materials for the operation of propagation should be 

 prepared : these are the requisite number of clear bell- 

 glasses. It will be advantageous to have them of different 

 sizes ; the smallest & inches, and the largest 6 inches 

 diameter, with two sizes between. Also prepare the 

 drainage by breaking a quantity of potsherds. These 

 should be in three sizes, the largest about an inch across, 

 the next half an inch, and the smallest the size of marrow- 

 fat peas, with the dust sifted out from amongst them. 

 Next, have the soil ready. The best is to be had from 

 some dry moorland where the heather grows wild. Break 

 the turves into a fine state, and pass it through a fine 

 sieve, reserving the rougher pieces to cover the drainage 

 with. The next things to look after are the pots. If new, 

 they must be placed in a tub of water for a few hours ; 

 if old, they must be well scoured and made perfectly 

 clean. Lastly, procure a sufficient quantity of pure 

 silver sand, a pair of propagating scissors, and a small 

 ivory-handled knife of the very best material. All these 

 being in readiness, see that the cuttings are in a fit state 

 to take off the plants. If they have made fresh shoots 

 an inch long, they are ready for use. Then take a small 

 clean pot, invert it, and place it over the hole at the 

 bottom of the pot for the cuttings, then fill in round a 

 few of the largest potsherds, and cover them with some 

 of the second size, and then, lastly, with a considerable 

 quantity of the smallest size, cover these with a layer of 

 tiie rough sittings. The whole of these should fill the 

 pot to within two and a half inches of the rim of the pot. 

 Upon that place an inch and a half of the heath mould, 

 with a large admixture of the silver sand ; level this last 

 layer with a circular piece of wood, with a nail driven 

 into the centre, to form a handle. Finish with a layer 

 of the pure white sand quite level with the rim of the 

 pot. Give a good watering with a fine rose pot, to 

 settle the same. Then take off the cuttings with the 

 scissors, and dress them with the knife ; cut the bottom 

 of the cutting clean off with a level cut, just at the 

 part between the new and the old wood ; then cut off 

 the leaves close to the stem, without wounding its bark, 

 about two-thirds of its length from the bottom. As 

 each cutting is made, place it under the bell-glass upon 

 the sand, till a sufficient number are made to fill the pot. 

 Make a mark in the sand to show the size of the glass, 

 and then proceed to put in the cuttings in regular rows 

 across the pot, keeping the leaves just clear out of the 

 sand. When they are all planted, give another gentle 

 watering, to settle the sand firm; allow them to dry 

 partially before the glass is put on. Then place them in 

 a house where they can be shaded from the sun, and 

 keep up a gentle heat of 55, as near as possible. Wipe 

 the glasses dry every morning, and as soon as the cuttings 

 are rooted, remove them into a cooler house, and give a 

 little air by placing three sheet pieces of wood, a quarter 

 of an inch thick and two inches long, so as to form a 



triangle, and let the bell-glass rest upon them. In this 

 house it will still be necessary to shade them from the 

 blazing sun. This is easily done by spreading some 

 sheets of paper over them ; but remove this shade in- 

 stantly when the sun is overclouded. When they have 

 been in this situation for a month, remove the glasses 

 entirely, and a month afterwards commence potting them 

 off in 3-inch pots, four in a pot, stopping them at the 

 same time, to make them bushy. Place them in a cold 

 frame, upon a layer of river-sand on coal-ashes ; shade 

 again for a time, and give air moderately. When they 

 have made fresh roots expose them occasionally to gentle 

 showers, but by no means to heavy rain. Give them 

 due supplies of water in dry weather, and keep them 

 clear of weeds. In these pots they must remain till the 

 spring following. During the winter place them on a 

 shelf, near the glass, in a light, airy greenhouse. About 

 March, pot them singly into the same sized pots, shading 

 them again till fresh roots are formed. They are then 

 ready for the usual routine of culture. Heaths, with 

 soft wood and free growth, are more easy to propagate, 

 and do not require so much preparation ; but in other 

 respects the management is the same. 



By Seed. Several kinds of heaths produce plenty of 

 good seed ; even some that are extremely difficult to 

 propagate any other way, such, for instance, as E. e'legans, 

 E. odo'ra rp'sea, E. halicaca'ba, E. triu'mphans, and some 

 others of similar habit. Fill the pots in the same way as 

 for cuttings, only mix the top layer of sand with as much 

 heath-mould ; make the surface smooth, and sow the 

 seed in spring on the surface, covering it as slightly as 

 possible ; water with the finest syringe, so that it may 

 fall upon the seed like the finest dew ; place the pots 

 near the glass, shade from bright sun, and keep the 

 surface just moist. The seedlings will soon come up, 

 and require great care, or they will fog off. To prevent 

 this give air daily. As soon as they can be handled 

 transplant them into 5-inch pots rather thickly, but 

 standing clear of each other. In this state they may 

 remain for six or eight months, and then pot them off 

 into 3-inch pots, four in a pot, and manage them after- 

 wards in the same way as the cuttings. 



Soil. This has been already described above, in 

 writing of the soil proper for the cuttings to root into ; 

 but for larger plants it must not be sifted so fine. For 

 very large plants do not sift it at all ; for such, if a few 

 pieces of sand-stone are mixed amongst the mould, they 

 will be useful to allow the water to penetrate to the 

 centre of the ball. 



Potting. Heaths thrive best if the mould is left below 

 the rim of the pot from half an inch for small plants in 

 6-inch pots, to two inches in large ones. This space holds 

 a supply of water which gradually sinks through, and 

 effectually moistens the ball to the centre. Drain 

 thoroughly with broken potsherds, half an inch for small 

 plants, to three inches for very large ones. 



Culture Cold pits or frames, in spring and autumn, 

 are the best protection to place heaths in during their 

 youth, and a good, airy, light, span-roofed greenhouse 

 for them through winter and spring, when they are too 

 large for the frames. In summer they should be set 

 out of doors upon a thick bed of coal-ashes, behind a 

 low wall or hedge. Whilst in this position they must 

 have an abundant and constant supply of water. If 

 the ball ever becomes thoroughly dry, tie plants will 

 certainly die ; therefore, attend to this point of watering 

 most rigidly and perseveringly. In winter they do not 

 require so much ; but even in that season they must 

 be kept moderately, but constantly and thoroughly, 

 moistened. 



Diseases. Heaths are subject to go off at the point 

 where the stem ends and the roots begin. This is caused 

 often by an irregular supply of water, and cannot be 

 cured when it once takes place. The plant may appear 

 green and flourishing, and the roots fresh, and the ends 

 are lively even when the stem is dead. Another fell 

 disease is the mildew. This may be sometimes cured 

 by first damping the plants infected, and then dusting 

 them over with flowers of sulphur. This disease is often 

 brought on by a long-continued damp atmosphere ; and 

 if that is not dried by a little heat, with abundance of 

 air, the disease will spread rapidly, and soon destroy 

 the plants. If only one or two are infected, they had 

 better be sulphured, and placed by themselves till the 

 mildew fungus is killed, 



