ONE-SHIFT SYSTEM 



606 



ONION 



ONE-SHIFT SYSTEM OF POTTING is giving a plant 

 in a pot one large shift, instead of frequent small ones. 

 Thus, instead of moving a plant successively from a 

 three to a five-inch pot, thence to a seven or an eight, 

 and thence again to a ten or a twelve, allowing the roots 

 to become matted at the sides of the pot, or merely to 

 reach there, according as flowering or growing is the 

 object aimed at, the plant is moved at once from a 

 three, four, or five-inch pot into one of eight, twelve, or 

 sixteen inches in diameter. It is seldom that a cutting, 

 or a seedling, or a very small plant, is at once moved 

 into a large one, as during its very small state it can be 

 more safely, easily, and economically attended to in a 

 small pot. The one-shift system requires room for its 

 adoption. Striking individual, rather than mere general 

 results are its characteristics ; and, therefore, where a 

 constant show of bloom and considerable variety in a 

 small space are chiefly desired, it should only be sparingly 

 adopted. The chief object aimed at is rapidity of 

 growth, and thus obtaining a beautiful specimen in a 

 much shorter period than could easily be realised by the 

 succession-shift system. By the one-shift system we 

 obtain a vigorous growth ; but yet, from being in a 

 pot, luxuriance may be so controlled as not to interfere 

 with the flowering. In fact, with the extra care and 

 trouble involved, we obtain the advantage without the 

 disadvantages of the planting-out system. For the one- 

 shift system, as well as in every other case where a fine 

 specimen is desired, a young plant must be commenced 

 with that has never had its roots matted round the pot. 

 Such a plant will soon overtake one four times its size, 

 but which has several times densely filled its pot with 

 roots. 



The freely-growing plants, and whose existence is short, 

 are the best to commence with. Many of them are best 

 managed upon this system. Wherever rapidity and 

 strength of growth are an object, annuals intended to 

 flower in pots, after being once pricked off into small 

 pots or preparatory beds, and thus established, can 

 scarcely be too soon afterwards transferred to their 

 blooming pots. Where double flowers, as in the Balsam, 

 or swelling-off part of the flower, as the receptacle in the 

 case of the Cockscomb, are wished for, then different 

 methods may be adopted to secure a desired end. With 

 such hard-wooded plants as Heaths and Epacrises the 

 most striking results are obtained by the one-shift 

 system ; but as greater care is necessary to success with 

 such plants, we would advise young beginners to try 

 some of the above soft-wooded plants in the first place, 

 and to keep in view, for all the cases they may try, 

 whether the plants are soft-wooded or hard. 



In common with other modes of potting, the pots 

 should be sound, fairly burned, dry, and either new or 

 thoroughly clean, outside and inside. Secondly, good 

 drainage always essential must here form a chief 

 element of success. In all plants intended to remain in 

 the same pot for years, it cannot be too particularly 

 attended to. Green moss, or chopped wheat-straw, 

 strewed over the drainage, is a good thing for preventing 

 the earthy particles above being washed into and choking 

 it up. Broken charcoal, from whence the dust has been 

 extracted, is also very useful for this purpose. Indeed, 

 larger pieces of charcoal may constitute the chief part 

 of the drainage, which will be lighter than most things 

 that could be used a matter of considerable importance. 

 On this account alone it is valuable for mixing with the 

 compost to keep it open, independently of any chemical 

 properties it may possess. Thirdly, soil. This, what- 

 ever may be its constituents, should be rough and lumpy ; 

 the bulk, in general cases, consisting of pieces from the 

 size of peas up to that of beans and walnuts ; and in 

 cases of larger pots, a few pieces may be as large as 

 hens' eggs. In such compost the plants will grow 

 rapidly ; and even in the case of Heaths, &c., they will 

 maintain a healthy appearance for years. Should much 

 of the compost be in larger pieces, the plant will not at 

 all be greatly injured for the first season, or more, nor 

 yet as long as the roots are contented to crawl around 

 the surface of the lumps ; but when they have reached 

 the side of the pot, and necessity leads them to penetrate 

 the large pieces, a declining appearance is apt to present 

 itself. Hence the complaints against the system, that 

 though plants grow vigorously at first, they were short- 

 lived. Such large shifts, in the fine-sifted soil of old, 

 could not succeed, unless in potted specimens that re- 

 ceived more care than can, in general, be given to plants. 



Using huge lumps of loam or peat would tend to produce 

 a similar evil, though from causes apparently different. 

 The middle course is the safe one ; but with rough soil, 

 it is necessary to surface with a little that is finer, that 

 the air may not enter too freely. Fourthly. A plant 

 never thrives well when the surface of the ball is sunk 

 several inches below the rim of the pot ; and there is 

 something uncouth in observing the centre of the ball 

 sticking up in the centre of the pot, like a molehill. In 

 all cases, therefore, but especially where it is intended 

 for a plant to continue for years, the compost should 

 be pressed firmly before the young plant is set in the 

 centre of the pot ; and as, nevertheless, it will gradually 

 sink a little, the surface of the old soil may just be a 

 little below the rim of the pot. If the roots are the least 

 matted, they should now be gently disentangled, and 

 packed carefully with the hand in layers, putting the 

 finest of the rough soil over the young rootlets, and the 

 coarser towards the outside, next the side of the pot, 

 and squeezing all rather firmly together with the hand, 

 taking care, however, that the soil is in that happy 

 medium that may be termed neither dry nor wet, and 

 yet sufficiently heated to occasion no immediate check 

 by cold. Fifthly. Watering is the most important of 

 all points, and, where it cannot be properly attended to, 

 the one-shift system should not be attempted. For 

 some time you must merely water as far as the roots 

 extend the unappropriated soil must not be soaked, or 

 it will become sour and unhealthy for the roots even 

 before they get to it. No regular routine dash or dribble 

 from the water-pot will do with the one-shift system. 

 Sixthly. Temperature. On this system, for some time 

 after potting, the plants should have from 5 to 10 

 more heat than they otherwise would require, and a 

 close atmosphere until fresh growth is proceeding freely. 

 A dash from the syringe frequently, in hot days, will be 

 of great importance. Every incitement to growth must 

 thus be given ; and, when that has been accomplished, 

 then air must be freely imparted, and a drier atmosphere 

 maintained, that the fresh wood so freely made may be 

 thoroughly matured. Seventhly. Time of Potting. 

 Upon this system, in the case of all lasting plants intended 

 to be our companions for years, this should take place 

 in spring and early summer, in order, first, that growth 

 may be quickly made, and then maturation of the wood 

 be effected before the dark days come, when, in the 

 generality of cases, the low temperature of winter will 

 give them the rest they require before breaking and 

 flowering vigorously and profusely the following season. 



ONION. A' Ilium Ce'pa. 



Soil, rich, open, and well-drained, in a situation en- 

 tirely free from trees ; if the soil be poor, abundance of 

 dung should be applied in the preceding autumn or 

 winter. Sea-sand, particularly if the ground is at all 

 tenacious, is advantageously employed ; coal-ashes, and 

 especially soot, are applied with particular benefit. In 

 digging over the ground, small spits only should be 

 turned over at a time, that the texture may be well 

 broken and pulverised. 



Varieties. (i) Silver-skinned Onion, hardiest ; (2) 

 Early Silver-skinned ; (3) True Portugal ; (4) Spanish ; 

 (5) Strasburg ; (6) Deptford ; (7) Globe (white or red) ; 

 (8) James's Keeping Onion ; (9) Pale Red ; (10) Yellow; 

 (n) Blood-red; (12) Tripoli; (13) Two-bladed; (14) 

 Lisbon ; (15) Ailsa Craig, Cranston's Excelsior, Rousham 

 Park Jrlero, "and Record (4$ lb.). These are some of the 

 largest exhibition Onions, which are sown in heat early 

 in February, grown on, and finally planted outside in 

 April. 



Sow for the main crop during March. Main crops 

 may even be inserted as late as the beginning of April, 

 and at its close a small sowing to draw young in summer, 

 and for small bulbs to pickle ; again in J uly and early 

 in August, for salads in autumn ; and finally in the last 

 week of August, or early in September, to stand the 

 winter, for spring and beginning of summer. Sow thinly 

 in drills, eight inches apart. An ounce of seed is sufficient 

 for a rood of ground, especially for the main crops, as 

 they should never be allowed to grow to a size fit for 

 salads without thinning. The beds should be about 

 four feet wide, for the convenience of cultivation. 



Cultivation. In about six weeks after sowing, the 

 plants will be of sufficient size to allow the first thinning 

 and small hoeing, by which they are to be set out about 

 two inches apart. If this is performed in dry weather, 



