ORANGE 



612 



ORCHARD HOUSE 



the seedlings are about an inch high, thin to 6 inches 

 asunder, and those removed may be planted out at the 

 same distance in a similar situation, and watered occa- 

 sionally until established. For early production sow in 

 a moderate hotbed at the same time as those in the 

 natural ground. The leaves must be gathered for use 

 whilst young, otherwise they become stringy and worth- 

 less. 



To save Seed. Some plants of the spring sowing must 

 be left ungathered from, and thinned to about 8 inches 

 apart. The seeds ripen about the end of August, when 

 the plants must be pulled up, and, when perfectly dry, 

 the seed rubbed out for use. 

 ORANGE. (Ci'trus Aura'niium.) See CI'TRUS. 

 ORANGE THORN. Citrio'batus. 

 ORA'NIA. (From ouranos, the heavens, the visible 

 space above the earth. Nat. ord. Palmacea?.) 



Large, stove Palms. Seeds. Fibrous loam, one-third 

 peat and sand. 



O. macro' dado, (long-branched). 40. Malaya. 1847. 

 ni'vea (snowy). Leaves white underneath. 1886. 

 Philippine' nsis (Philippine). Philippines. 

 porphyroca'rpa (purple-fruited). See DIDYMOSPERMA 



PORPHYROCARPON. 



rega'lis (royal). 7-10. Java. 1847. 



O'RBEA. See STAPELIA. 



ORCHARD is an enclosure devoted to the cultivation 

 of hardy fruit-trees. With respect to the situation and 

 aspect for an orchard, avoid very low, damp situations 

 as much as the nature of the place will admit ; for in 

 very wet soils no fruit-trees will prosper, nor the fruit 

 be fine ; but a moderately low situation, free from 

 copious wet, may be more eligible than an elevated 

 ground, as being less exposed to tempestuous winds ; 

 though a situation having a small declivity is very 

 desirable, especially if its aspect incline towards the 

 east, south-east, or south, which are rather more eligible 

 than a westerly aspect ; but a north aspect is the worst 

 of all for an orchard, unless particularly compensated 

 by the peculiar temperament or good quality of the soil. 

 Any common field or pasture that produces good crops 

 of corn, grass, or kitchen-garden vegetables is suitable 

 for an orchard ; if it should prove of a loamy nature, it 

 will be a particular advantage. Any soil, however, of 

 a good quality, not too light and dry, nor too heavy, 

 stubborn, or wet, but of a medium nature, friable and 

 open, with not less than one spade deep of good staple, 

 will be proper. 



Drain thoroughly, and trench before planting. Plant 

 in October, or, at the latest, in November. Trees will 

 succeed if planted later ; but those are the best months. 

 Plant on stations (see STATIONS) ; and the following is 

 a good selection : Of Apples, plant for Kitchen use 

 Keswick Codling, Mank's Codling, Blenheim Pippin, 

 Dumelow's Seedling, Minshall Crab, Bedfordshire Found- 

 ling, Norfolk Beaufin, Hawthomden, Stirling Castle, 

 Golden Noble, Warner's King, Lane's Prince Albert, 

 Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder, and Northern 

 Greening. For Dessert: Early Harvest, Early Red 

 Margaret, Kerry Pippin, Beauty of Bath, Mr. Gladstone, 

 Lady Sudeley, James Grieve, American Mother, King of 

 the Pippins, Cox's Orange Pippin, Scarlet Nonpareil, 

 Cockle's Pippin, Lord Burghley, Ribston Pippin, Ross 

 Nonpareil, Old Nonpareil. Lamb-Abbey Pearmain, 

 Sturmer Pippin, and Court Pendu Plat. Of Cherries : 

 Early Purple Griotte, Early May Duke, Black Eagle, 

 Elton, Bigarreau, Florence, Late Duke, Morello, and 

 Buttner's October Morello. Of Plums : Early Prolific, 

 Orleans, Drap d'Or, Greengage, Victoria, Kirke's, Reine 

 Claude de Bavay, Jefferson, Denniston's Superb, Dia- 

 mond, Rivers' Czar, Pond's Seedling, Reine Claude 

 Violette, Coe's Golden Drop, St. Martin's Quetsche, 

 Washington, Monarch, Magnum Bonum, and Ickworth 

 Imp6ratrice. In the preceding lists we have named the 

 varieties in their order of ripening ; but in this of Pears 

 the months named are those in which the fruit is ripe 

 July, Doyenne d'Ete. August, Jargonelle. Sept., 

 Williams' Bon Chr6tien, Beurre d'Amanlis, Dr. Jules 

 Guyot, Marguerite Marillat, Souvenir du Congres. Oct., 

 Beurre Hardy, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Marie Louise, 

 Fondante d'Automne. Nov., Beurre Bosc, Thompson's 

 Doyenne du Cornice, Glou Morceau. Dec., Hacon's In- 

 comparable, Triomphe de Jodoigne. Jan., Beurre 



Sterckmans, Easter Beurre, Knight's Monarch. Feb., 

 Josephine de Malines, Marie Benoist, Nouvelle Fulvie. 

 March, Olivier des Serres, Nee Plus Meuris. April, 

 Beurr Ranee, Bergamote d'Esperen. 



ORCHARD HOUSE. This is the name applied by 

 Mr. Rivers, nurseryman, Sawbridgeworth, to cheap 

 glazed structures, in which he grows hardy fruits in pots, 

 and planted in the borders. 



We have found that such a greenhouse, without any 

 heating apparatus, is most useful, not only for growing 

 Grapes, Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, but early 

 Peas, Radishes, Strawberries, Lettuces, small Salading, 

 and Potatoes. Such a structure is the following, de- 

 scribed by Mr. Rivers, in his highly useful work, The 

 Orchard House. 



We will suppose that an orchard house 30 feet long is 

 required. A ground-plan, 30 feet long and 12 feet wide, 

 must be marked out, ten posts or studs of good yellow 

 deal, 4 inches by 3, and 9 feet in length, or if larch poles, 

 16 inches in girth, can be procured, they are quite equal 

 in durability ; these latter must be cut in two, and the 

 flat sides placed outwards ; these posts, or studs, whether 

 larch or deal, must be fixed 2 feet in the ground firmly, 

 and the ground ends must be charred 2 feet 4 inches 

 from the bottom, which adds much to their durability : 

 it will thus be seen that this, the back line of studs, 

 will stand 7 feet in height clear from the surface. For 

 the front wall, ten studs, 4 feet long, must be inserted 

 in the ground ij feet, so that they stand 2 feet 6 inches 

 clear from the surface ; on these studs, both at front 

 and back, must be nailed a plate 4 inches by 2$, on 

 which the rafters are to rest ; the studs are thus far 

 arranged in two lines. Now, then, for the rafters : these 

 must be 14 feet long, and 4 inches by 2 in thickness, 

 placed with the narrow surface upwards, to spare the 

 trouble of " ploughing," to make the rebate for the 

 glass, which is great labour and waste of material. On 

 the upper side of each rafter, exactly in the centre, 

 must be nailed a slip of J-inch board, J of an inch wide ; 

 this will leave $ an inch and & on each side for the glass 

 to rest on not too much when the width of the glass 

 is given. We have thus the rafters so far prepared for 

 glazing, but not yet fitted on the plates at top and 

 bottom : they must never be morticed, but let in at 

 top by cutting out a piece, and sloped off at bottom. 



To receive the glass at the top of the rafters, a piece 

 of j -inch deal board, 6 inches wide, must be nailed 

 along the top to the end of each rafter, so as to be even 

 with the surface, and in this should be a groove to 

 receive the upper end of each piece of glass ; at the 

 bottom, a piece of board, i inch thick and 6 inches 

 wide, must be let in for the glass to rest on, and to carry 

 off the water. We have thus so far a sloping roof, 

 7 feet 3 inches (with the plate) high at back, and 2 feet 

 9 inches high in front ; but the glass is not yet in. The 

 most economical glass is sixteen-ounce British sheet, which 

 can be bought at 2d. or $d. per foot, and the best size 

 20 inches by 12 ; puttying the laps, as it prevents 

 breakage by frost ; placing it cross-wise, so that the 

 rafters must be about 20 inches asunder. On and out- 

 side the back studs, J-inch boards must be nailed, well 

 seasoned, so that they do not shrink too much ; these 

 must be painted white. In the back wall, sliding 

 shutters, 2 feet 6 inches by i foot, in grooves, must be 

 fixed, for complete ventilation ; two close to the roof, 

 and two about 18 inches from it. 



The front must have, also, i-inch boards nailed on 

 outside the studs ; one of them, the upper one, to be 

 on hinges, so as to let down the whole length of the 

 house ; these, when all open in hot weather, ventilate 

 thoroughly. To add to this (and it is all required in 

 summer), the boards will shrink and let in air : a fierce 

 sunlight is thus admitted by the large glass, and abund- 

 ance of air, in which all fruit-trees thrive to admiration. 

 So much for the timber and glass ; but when one sees 

 that to walk along the centre of the building, which is 

 about 4 feet 9 inches in height, a person must be of 

 very diminutive stature, the inquiry arises, How is head- 

 room to be made ? How simple is the answer ! Make 

 a trench 2 feet 6 inches wide, and 2 feet deep, in the 

 centre of the ground-plan ; this will leave a border on 

 each side 4 feet 9 inches wide. The bottom of this 

 trench forms the footpath ; its sides must be supported 

 with boards, or with 4-inch brick-work. Now, as every- 

 thing depends on these borders for there must be no 



