ORCHIDS 



6i5 



ORCHIDS 



and the sunshine becomes dangerous to the well-being 

 of the plants. 



The Proper Amount of Heat, Moisture, and Air the 

 Plants require at All Times of the Year. The power of heat- 

 ing should be more than is required in ordinary winters, 

 in order to be prepared for those very severe ones that 

 sometimes occur. It is always easy enough to give less 

 heat in moderate weather by having less fire applied 

 under the boiler. The degrees of heat required we shall 

 now give for all the year. 



Our readers will perceive that the lowest temperature 

 at all seasons is in the morning ; that is, before the fires 

 are stirred. The heat in the mornings in summer will 

 depend upon the heat of the atmosphere out of doors ; 

 the rest of the day may be regulated by giving air. 

 The principle of having a lower temperature during the 

 night is perfectly natural. The variations even in 

 tropical countries, in that respect, are great. 



Watering with the Garden-pot. As a general rule, let 

 it be laid down never to water an orchid except it re- 

 quires it ; therefore, in commencing to water, observe 

 each plant well, but quickly, and water accordingly. 

 An orchid requires watering when it is growing and dry. 

 The quantity to be given depends, again, upon the stage 

 of its growth. If the young shoots and new roots are 

 just beginning only to make their appearance, they 

 require a very moderate quantity ; but, as then the 

 plant ought to be repotted, and the new, fresh compost 

 is, or should be, moist of itself, the water must be with- 

 held until the surface, at least, feels quite dry to the 

 touch. Again, the water should be applied at a small 

 distance from the young shoots, which ought never to 

 be saturated, or even wetted, especially either in the 

 dark, cloudy days of winter or of early spring. In 

 summer, when the heat is increased, the sun shining, 

 and air given, the operator need not be so nice, as the 

 extra water will soon evaporate, and dry up even from 

 the young and tender shoots. When the young shoots 

 begin to form pseudo-bulbs, the quantity of water may 

 be increased, care being taken that it does not lodge in 

 the leafy sheaths which surround the green or young 

 bulbs, especially of Ca'ttleyas. We have often seen a 

 year's growth destroyed by allowing the water to lodge 

 in those tender parts. The way to remedy this is with 

 a sharp knife, or a small pair of scissors, to slit open to 

 the bottom the sheaths that hold the water ; but this is 

 an operation that must be done very carefully, without 

 injuring the young pseudo-bulb, or the cure will be as 

 bad as the disease ; for, if you wound a pseudo-bulb, 

 ten to one it will perish. As soon as these sheaths turn 

 yellow, and not before, they may be entirely removed 

 safely. When in that state they will easily part from 

 the bulb without injuring it, if carefully pulled off. When 

 the growths are young, whether the water is applied 

 with the rose or spout alone, it will generally be quite 

 sufficient to wet the earth or compost only round near 

 the edge of each pot. If the water is poured indiscrimi- 

 nately all over the surface of the compost, especially in 

 the early season of the year, the consequence will be to 

 endanger the young shoots. At that season, and in 

 that state, if the water is slushed upon the plants, it 

 will cause several, if not all of the tender young growths 

 to perish ; but as those growths begin to approach their 

 usual size, and the warm, long, sunshiny days prevail, 



that is the critical or very time orchids require an 

 abundance of water. 



Giving Air. The method we recommend to give air 

 by is with wooden shutters, let into the wall at intervals 

 of 4 feet between each, on each side of the house. The 

 wooden shutters, or doors, should be ai feet long by 

 15 inches broad. A frame of wood ought to be fitted 

 into the opening in the wall, to hang the shutters on. 

 These should swing on the centre with two iron pins, so 

 that when they open they will be horizontal, and let 

 the air into the house plentifully. When less air is re- 

 quired, every other aperture need only be opened, or 

 the shutters may be propped only half open. When they 

 are opened, the fresh air will rush in, and, meeting with 

 the pipes in its progress, will be partially heated and 

 softened before it comes in contact with the plants a 

 point worth attending to. For nine months in the year 

 this way of giving air to the Indian house will be found 

 all that is wanted. During the three hot months of 

 summer, it will be necessary to give some air at the 

 highest part of the roof. The ridge of the house should 

 be made flat, about 9 inches broad, and parts of it made 

 movable, to lift up with an iron rod whenever the heat 

 of the internal air exceeds the proper degree. This is 

 the guide on all occasions and all seasons. When the 

 heat is too much, give air. 



It will be found that the Mexican house requires more 

 frequently to have air given to it than the other, because 

 the plants in it do not require so much heat. To know, 

 at all times, when to give air, have a copy of the table 

 of heat for the orchid-house copied, and hung up in a 

 convenient place to refer to. 



Resting. To know when the bulbs are in a proper 

 state to go to rest may be, to our readers, of some 

 consequence. They ought to be strong, and, if expected 

 to flower, at least 3 feet high, stout, and firm, quite 

 to the apex. All the leaves ought to turn yellow, and 

 drop off in the same manner as any other annually leaf- 

 shedding plant ; and all this ought to take place early 

 in autumn. As soon as it does so, remove the plant, or 

 plants, into a drier and cooler house, and keep them 

 there until the buds at the bottom of each pseudo-bulb 

 begin to appear. 



Cleansing the Leaves. Take down the plant from its 

 high position ; if the moss or peat, whichever it may 

 happen to be growing in, is dry, give it a good soaking 

 in the cistern, the water of which is at a temperature of 

 70. Whilst it is soaking, all dead leaves are to be care- 

 fully removed, and every part of the plant thoroughly 

 washed with a sponge. If the leaves are thick and 

 leathery, the sponge is to be rubbed over them several 

 times with a heavy hand. In fact, it might be called 

 a good scrubbing ; being careful, of course, not to injure 

 it. For more tender leaves we have, very lately, used 

 something else. We observed that the sponge, though 

 used ever so lightly on these tender, thin leaves, injured 

 them slightly. Happening to observe a piece of thick 

 leather, such as soldiers' belts are made of, it was taken 

 and wrapped round the end of a small stick, fastening 

 it firmly to it with some small copper wire, leaving half 

 an inch of it projecting beyond the stick ; it had then 

 the appearance of a brush made of leather. With this 

 instrument the leaves were washed, and it was so soft 

 and pliable that it did not injure the youngest or tenderest 

 leaf, yet effectually washed the dust and dirt off from 

 the leaves. This washing not only clears off the parasites 

 and any other obstruction, but also destroys insects, 

 particularly the red spider and black thrip, two of the 

 most pernicious enemies to orchids. Let every part of 

 the plants be well cleansed leaves, stems, and pseudo- 

 bulbs. Not only will the plants look better, but they 

 will be greatly benefited in their health. 



Potting. Generally speaking, the months of January, 

 February, and March are the proper times ; but as there 

 is no rule without exceptions, some orchids require 

 potting at all seasons of the year. The beginner may 

 know when to pot his plants by this observation : When- 

 ever they are determined to grow, they must be potted. 

 The only precaution necessary to observe, in the dark 

 seasons, will be to use the stuff you pot them in (for it 

 can hardly be called soil) in a moderately dry state, 

 and give no water excepting a sprinkling to settle the 

 compost. 



In the first place, have ready a quantity of broken 

 pots or potsherds of several sizes ; next, procure some 

 good turfy peat, knock it into pieces with a heavy 



