PAVIA 



639 



PEA 



P natale'nsis (Natalese). 2-3. S. Africa. 1888. 



odora'ta (scented). i|-3. White, fragrant. Java. 



,, specio'sa (showy), ij 2. Gardens. 



,, tomento'sa (woolly). See P. INDICA. 



PA' VIA. (Named after P. Paw, a Dutch botanist. 

 Nat. ord. Soapworts [Sapindaceae]. Linn. y-Heptandria, 

 i-Monogynia. Now referred to /Esculus.) 

 P. califo'rnica, ( Calif ornian). See /ESCULUS CAI.IFORNICA. 

 ca'rnea (flesh-coloured). See yEscuLus CARNEA. 



di'scolor (two-coloured). See /ESCULUS FLAVA PUR- 



PURASCENS. 



fla'va (yellow). See /ESCULUS FLAVA. 



t'ndica (Indian). See yEscuLus INDICA. 

 , macroca'rpa (large-fruited). See .ESCULUS PAVIA. 

 , macrosta'ckya (large-spiked). See yEscuLus PARVI- 



FLORA. 



, negle'cta (neglected). See yEscuLus NEGLECTA. 



, ru'bra (red- flowered). See yEscuLus PAVIA. 



PAVO'NIA. (Named after /. Pawn, a Spanish 

 botanist. Nat. ord. Mallowworts [Malvaceae]. Linn. 16- 

 Monadelphia, 8-Polyandria. Allied to Malvaviscus.) 



Stove evergreens. Cuttings in sand, under a glass, 

 in heat ; sandy loam. Stove temperature. 

 P. cocci 'nea (scarlet). 2. Scarlet. St. Domingo. 1816. 



makoya'na (Makoyan). See GCETHEA MAKOYANA. 



ntalacophy'lla (soft-leaved). See P. VELUTINA. 



multiflo'r a (many-flowered). Purple. August. Brazil. 

 1878. 



Schra'nkii (Schrank's). 2. Orange, yellow. July. 

 Brazil. 1823. 



veluti'na (velvety). 3. Red. August. Brazil. 1823. 



Wio'ti (Wiot's). See P. MULTIFLORA. 

 PAXTO'NIA. (Named after Sir J. Paxton, the cele- 

 brated gardener to the Duke of Devonshire. Nat. ord. 

 Orchids [Orchidaceae]. Linn. zo-Gynandria, \-Monan- 

 dria. Referred to Spathoglottis.) 

 P. ro'sea (rosy). See SPATHOGLOTTIS ROSEA. 



PEA. (Pi' sum sati'vum.) There are many varieties, 

 but a few will serve for gardens of small or moderate 

 size. The earliest white round Peas are Lightning, 3 ft. ; 

 Giant Lightning, 4 ft. ; and a very early blue round pea 

 is Bountiful, 3^ ft., which may be sown in autumn. 

 First-class, first-early Marrowfat Peas are Edward VII, 

 15 in. ; William Hurst, 18 in. ; Witham Wonder, 21 in. ; 

 Little Marvel, 15 in. ; Ideal, 2\ ft. ; May Queen, 2$ ft. ; 

 and Gradus, 4 ft., with rich Ne Plus Ultra flavour. 

 Favourite, second-early round Peas are Pride of the 

 Market, 2 ft. ; and Telegraph, 2$ ft. Fine Marrowfat 

 Peas of this class are Duke of Albany, 5 ft. ; Edwin 

 Beckett, 5^ ft. ; Daisy, 2 ft. ; Centenary, 5 ft. ; Tele- 

 phone, 5 ft. ; and Duke of York, 5 ft. Marrowfat, 

 maincrop Peas of first quality are Eureka, 3 ft. ; Best of 

 All, 4 ft. ; Glory of Devon, 4 ft. ; Alderman, 5 ft. ; Quite 

 Content, 5-6 ft. ; Stratagem, 2^ ft. ; Prizewinner, 

 2i ft. ; and Peerless, 3 ft- The best late Marrowfat 

 Peas are Autocrat, 4 ft. ; Ne Plus Ultra, 6 ft. ; and 

 Veitch's Perfection, 3 ft. Favourite exhibition Peas 

 amongst the above are Duke of Albany, Centenary, 

 Edwin Beckett, Telephone, Duke of York, Alderman, 

 Best of All, Peerless, Stratagem, Quite Content, and 

 Prizewinner. 



One quart of an early variety of pea is quite sufficient 

 for sowing a row 100 feet in length ; half a pint less sown 

 in the same distance of the blue varieties, and one pint 

 of the large and tall kinds, are sufficient where the soil 

 is rich, well pulverised, and pretty free from slugs, &c. 



Soil. A soil moderately rich and open is best, rather 

 inclining to strong for the lofty growers and main crops, 

 but for the early and late ones, light and dry. Dwarf 

 varieties will grow on poorer and lighter soils than the 

 others. 



Early Peas. The best mode of obtaining these is 

 according to the following plan, suggested by Mr. Bishop, 

 gardener to C. Baldwin, Esq., of Camberwell : 



In the last week of January, cut some turf in strips 

 of 3 inches in width, the length depending on the width 

 of the hotbed in which they are to be placed. Lay the 

 pieces of turf in the frame, grass downwards, close to- 

 gether ; then make in the centre of each piece of turf, 

 by pressing it with the edge of a board, a drill, in which 

 sow the peas, which soon come up ; and then take the 

 lights entirely off in the daytime unless very cold, and 

 shut them down at night. Keep them close till the 



beginning of March. When the peas are to be planted in 

 the border, lift the box entirely off, and the strips of turf, 

 in which the peas will be well rooted, and place them on 

 a hand-barrow, and take them to the border for planting, 

 which do in a drill cut so deep that they shall be about 

 an inch lower than they were in the box. It may be 

 necessary to protect them from frost and cool winds at 

 first, and this may be done by putting some short sticks 

 along the rows, and laying some long litter or cuttings 

 of evergreens over them. Card. Chron. 



Sowing. In January they may be sown in sheltered 

 borders, and larger supplies in an open compartment, 

 and thence continued throughout February and until 

 the end of May once every two or three weeks. 



For the first production in the following year, a small 

 sowing may be made at the close of October, and repeated 

 about the middle of November and December, though 

 it often happens that these are scarcely a week forwarder 

 than those inserted in the following February. 



Sow in drills, or by the dibble in rows, at a distance 

 proportionate to the height to which the variety grows, 

 as well as according to the season ; Dwarfs at 2 feet, 

 for the early and late crops, but 3 feet for the main ones ; 

 Marrowfats at 3$ or 4$ feet ; Knight's Marrowfats and 

 other gigantic varieties at 6 or 8 feet. Peas not intended 

 to be supported require the least room. At the early and 

 late sowings the seed should be buried i inch deep, but 

 for the main crops ij in. With respect to the dis- 

 tances, it may be inserted in the row, of the Dwarfs, 

 two in i inch ; Blues and other middle-sized varieties 

 for the main crops, three in 2 inches ; the tall and Ne 

 Plus Ultra, as well as others of similar stature, full 

 i inch apart. The best mode is to sow in single rows, 

 ranging north and south, and the sticks alternately on 

 each side of the row. If the rows range east and west, 

 put the sticks on the south side. 



When the summer sowings are made, if dry weather is 

 prevalent, the seed should be soaked in water for two 

 or three hours previous, and the drills well watered. 



When the plants have advanced to a height of 2 or 

 3 inches, they are to be hoed, and earth drawn around 

 their stems. This should be done twice or three times 

 gradually as they ascend, previous to the sticks being 

 placed. It should be performed in dry weather ; for 

 the winter-standing crops it should be especially attended 

 to, as it protects them greatly from frost. 



Sticking is not required until the plants show their 

 tendrils. If, during the time of blossoming or swelling 

 of the fruit, continued drought should occur, water may 

 very beneficially be applied, it being poured between 

 the rows, if they are in pairs, or otherwise in a shallow 

 trench, on one side of each. Watering the leaves is 

 rather injurious. Failures in the rows of the earliest 

 crops may be rectified by transplanting. This is best 

 performed in March : the plants thus removed must be 

 watered until they have taken root, and also shaded if 

 the weather is hot. It is a good practice to nip off the 

 top of the leading shoots of the early and late crops as 

 soon as they are in blossom, as it greatly accelerates the 

 setting and maturity of the fruit. Too much care cannot 

 be taken, when the pods are gathered, not to injure the 

 stems. We know, from lengthened experience, that if 

 the pods are cut off with scissors, the plants produce 

 one-fourth more than when roughly gathered from. 



The more regularly the plants are gathered from, the 

 longer they continue in production, as the later pods 

 never attain maturity if the earlier ones are allowed to 

 grow old before they are gathered. In very severe 

 weather, the winter-standing crops require the shelter of 

 litter or other light covering, supported as much as 

 possible from the plants by means of branches ; ropes 

 or twisted straw-bands are good for this purpose, to be 

 fixed along each side of the rows with wooden pins 

 driven into the ground. Whichever mode of shelter is 

 adopted, it must be always removed in mild weather, 

 otherwise the plants will be spindled and rendered weaker. 

 To obtain Seed, leave some rows that are in production 

 during July, or sow purposely in March. Care must be 

 taken, however, that no two varieties are in blossom 

 near each other at the same time. The plants intended 

 for seed ought never to be gathered from. When in 

 blossom, all plants which do not appear to belong to 

 the variety among which they are growing should be 

 removed. They are fit for harvesting as soon as the 

 pods become brownish and dry. When perfectly free 

 from moisture, they should be beaten out, otherwise, if 



