PLAGIOLIRION 



678 



PLASHING 



P. betuli'nus (birch-like). 12-40. White. New Zealand. 



1870. " Ribbon-Tree." 

 Dampie'ri (Dampier's). See P. SIDOIDES. 

 divarica'tus (spreading). 6-10. White. June. New 



Zealand. 1820. 

 Lampe'nii (Lampen's). 5-8. Pale yellow. Winter. 



Tasmania. 1833. 

 Lya'llii (Lyall's). 10-20. White. New Zealand. 



.. pulche'llus (pretty). 4. White. April. Australia. 

 sidoi'des (Sida-like). 5-8 White. September. Tas- 

 mania. 1834. 



PLAGIOLI'RION. (From plagios, oblique, and leirion, 

 the white lily ; in reference to the colour of the flowers, 

 and their oblique limb. Nat. ord. Amaryllidaceae. 

 Allied to Eucharis and Calliphruria.) 



Stove bulb. Offsets. Ftbrous loam, leaf-mould, some 

 well-decayed cow manure and sand. 

 P. Horsma'nni (Horsman's). J-J. White; tube green. 

 July. Colombia. 1883. 



PLAGIOLO'BIUM. (From plagios, transverse, and 

 lobos, a pod. Nat. ord. Leguminous Plants [Leguminosael- 

 Linn. ly-Diadclphia, ^-Decandria. Now referred to 

 Hovea.) 

 P. chorizemafo'lium (Chorizema-leaved). See HOVEA 



CHORIZEMjEFOLIA. 



ilicifo'lium (holly-leaved). See HOVEA CHORIZEM^- 



FOLIA. 



PLAGIOSPE'RMUM SINE'NSE. See PRINSEPIA 



SINENSIS. 



PLA GIUS GRANDIFLO'RUS. See CHRYSANTHEMUM 



GRANDE. 



PLANERA. (Named after /. Planer, a German 

 botanist. Nat. ord. Nettleumts [Urticaceae]. Linn. 4- 

 Tetrandria, ^-Tetragynia. Allied to the Elm.) 



Hardy deciduous trees. Layers, and grafting on the 

 elm ; common, rich loam. 



P. acumina'ta (long-pointed). See ZELKOVA ACUMINATA. 

 aqua'tica (aquatic). 12. Brown. April. N. Amer. 



1816. 

 carpinifo'lia (hornbeam-leaved). See ZELKOVA 



CRENATA. 



Gmeli'ni (Gmelin's). See P. AQUATICA. 

 japo'nica (Japanese). See ZELKOVA ACUMINATA. 

 parvifo'lia (small- leaved). See ULMUS PARVIFOLIA. 

 Richa'rdi (Richard's). See ZELKOVA CRENATA. 



PLANE-TREE. Pla'tanus. 



PLANE-TREE, SCOTCH. A 'cer Pseu'do-pla'tanus. 



PLANER-TREE. Pla'nera aqua'tica. 



PLANK PLANT. Bossics'a scolopen'dria. 



PLANTA'GO. (From the old Latin name, Planfago, 

 from its flat, spreading leaf. Nat. ord. Plantaginaceae.) 

 Hardy perennial herbs. Seeds ; sometimes by 

 divisions or cuttings. Ordinary soil. P. lanceola'ta, 

 P. ma'jor, and P. me'dia are very troublesome in lawns, 

 on account of their broad leaves. Spudding them out 

 is the most certain remedy. 

 P. aqua'tica (aquatic). See ALISMA PLANTAGO. 

 ,, brasilie 'nsis (Brazilian). See P. CORIACEA. 

 coria'cea (leathery), i. Creamy-white. Summer. 



Brazil. 1823. Greenhouse. 

 lanceola'ta margina'ta (edged-lance-shaped). Leaves 



bordered with white. France. 1889. 

 macrophy'lla purpu'rea (large-leaved-purple). See 



P. MAJOR PURPUREA. 



ma'jor purpu'rea (larger-leaved). Leaves purple. 



Britain. 1878. 

 variega'ta (variegated). Leaves variegated. 



Hampshire. 1904. 

 ma'vima (largest). iJ-2. Cream. May, June. 



Siberia. 1908. 

 ,, uniflo'ra (one-flowered). Leaves cut, variegated. 



New Zealand. 1899. 



PLANTAIN. Applied to the common species of 

 Planta'go, but in the tropics to Mu'sa sapie'ntum para- 

 disi'aca. 



PLA'NTIA. (Named by Dr. Herbert after Mr. Plant, 

 nurseryman at Cheadle, in commemoration of his success 

 in cross-breeding. Nat. ord. Irids [Iridaceae]. Linn. 

 3-Triandria, i-Monogynia. Now referred to Hexaglottis. 

 P. fla'va (yellow). See HEXAGLOTTIS LONGIFOLIA. 



PLANTING. The end of October is the best time in 

 the whole year to plant all kinds of trees and bushes 

 which cast their leaves in winter, whether fruit-bearing 

 or ornamental ; but all the evergreen American plants, 

 as the Rfwdode' ndron, may be planted in October, as well 

 as in April, May, and June, or September the right 

 months for getting in most evergreens. For directions 

 as to planting Fruit-trees, the reader is referred to the 

 article STATIONS : but much of the following directions 

 relative to planting ornamental trees and shrubs is 

 generally applicable. Wherever they are to be placed, 

 if the soil is at all dry at the bottom, no matter how 

 poor it may be, it should be stirred or trenched 3 feet 

 deep. In the case of single plants, where a pit or hole 

 only is required, the narrowest diameter ought to be 

 4 feet, and if the bottom soil is poor, it should be removed, 

 and some good added instead ; but loose soil of this 

 description will subside in time, and if the plants are tied 

 to stakes, as many need be to keep them firm the first 

 year or two, the sinking of the soil from under the roots 

 may cause them to strain, or otherwise injure them, by 

 cracking and letting in the dry winds to them. Another 

 evil is, that when trees thus planted sink down gradually, 

 additional soil is placed over the roots to make the 

 surface level, and this is equivalent to planting too deep 

 in the first instance, and deep planting is always to be 

 avoided. Therefore the loose or new soil beneath the 

 roots ought to be gently pressed down, and the pit filled 

 up to near the surface of the ground, or to within 3 or 

 4 inches of it, so that, when the tree or bush is planted, 

 the surface of the pit will appear a little mound, several 

 inches above the surrounding surface. Plant fruit- 

 trees shallow and on hard bottoms, to prevent their 

 getting too luxuriant ; but in gardening for ornamental 

 plants, the more healthy and vigorous we can grow 

 , them the more ornamental they will be, unless, indeed, 

 i they are rather tender for our climate. In that case 

 shallow planting on a solid or unloosed bottom suits 

 1 them best, as they cannot grow too strong, and the wood 

 will therefore ripen better. The shrub being taken up 

 with long, bare roots, and a host of small fibres, and a 

 ! considerable ball of soil attached close up to the bole or 

 bottom of the plant, place this ball in the middle of the 

 ! prepared pit, and fill in the loose soil under the strong 

 roots, so that they may lie in their natural position ; 

 i and in doing it, if the small fibres are pressed down 

 \ too much, loosen them back again, and fill in any cavities 

 i under the bole or main roots. When the roots, great 

 I and small, each of them branching out in straight lines, 

 ' are as regular as they can be placed, some of the lower 

 ; ones will be out of sight, but the majority are still in 

 ' view. Over those put a little better soil, thus : take a 

 I spadeful, and throw it past the stem of the plant on 

 the roots on the opposite side to you, so that the soil 

 runs along in the same direction as the roots. If you 

 throw it on the roots next to you, it will run against their 

 direction and turn back their small points, which would 

 be nearly as bad as the old way of shaking the plant 

 up and down at this stage. When all the roots are 

 ! covered an inch or two, the watering-pot must come, 

 j with a large rose to it, and you must water all over 

 : the surface heartily, even if it is a rainy day. This 

 ; watering is to do the business of the old shaking settle 

 1 the finer particles of the soil about the roots. The rest 

 of the soil, to the depth of 4 or 5 inches, may be thrown 

 j on anyhow, if the lumps are broken small, so that the 

 i surface is pretty smooth, and formed into a shallow 

 ! basin to hold the future waterings. A stout stake, or 

 stakes, according to the size of the plant, should be 

 driven down before the earth is put over the roots, to 

 keep the plant from wind-waving. When large, bushy 

 evergreens are to be removed, their branches must be 

 i tied up towards the stem by passing a rope or strong 

 \ cord round them before commencing at the roots. 



PLASHING is a mode of repairing or modifying a hedge 



, by bending down a portion of the shoots, cutting them 



half through near the ground to render them more pliable, 



and twisting them among the upright stems, so as to 



render the whole more effective as a fence, and, at the 



