ROSANOWIA 



755 



ROSE 



ROSANO'WIA. (Commemorative of Serge Rosanow. 

 Nat. ord. Gesneraceae. Now referred to Sinningia, but 

 not yet described under that genus.) 



For culture see SINNINGIA, mostly known in gardens 

 as Gloxinias. 

 R. conspi'cua (conspicuous), i. Yellow, purple. Brazil. 



1868. 

 hy'brida (hybrid), i. Yellow, purple. Gardens. 



1885. 



orna'ta (adorned). i. Rose, white, yellowish. 

 (Sinningia conspicuaxspeciosa.) 1882. 



ROSCHE'RIA. (Commemorative of M. Roscher. Nat. 

 ord. Palmacea?.) 



A stove Palm. Seeds. Fibrous loam, peat, and sand. 

 R. melanoch&'tes (black-haired). 20-25. Mascarene 

 Islands. 1871. 



ROSCO'EA. (Named after Mr. Roscoe, the founder 

 of the Liverpool Botanic Garden. Nat. ord. Gingerworls 

 [Scitaminacea?]. Linn. i-Monandria, i-Monogynia.) 



Stove herbaceous perennials, all but one purple- 

 flowered. Division in spring ; sandy loam and leaf- 

 mould. Winter temp., 48' to 55 ; summer, 60 to 75. 

 R. capita'ta (headed), i. July. Nepaul. 1819. 



ela'tior (taller). See CAUTLEA LUTEA. 



gra'cilis (slender). See CAUTLEA LUTEA. 



lu'tea (yellow). See CAUTLEA LUTEA. 



purpu'rea (purple), i. July. India. 1820. 



sikkime'nsis (Sikkim). See R. PURPUREA. 



spica'ta (spiked). See CAUTLEA SPICATA. 



ROSE. Ro'sa. 



Propagation. Most kinds of roses can be propagated 

 by cuttings. By this method we only obtain dwarfs ; 

 yet, as many sorts do best on their own roots, the China 

 and Tea-scented for instance, for these we must adopt 

 cuttings. The best time for making the cuttings is in 

 April. 



Cuttings in Pots. The most convenient-sized pots are 



5 inches across ; fill them with moderately rich, light 

 earth, press it firmly down, then fill the pots quite up 

 to the rim with silver sand, or with finely sifted river 

 sand ; give a gentle watering from a fine-rosed watering- 

 pot, then cut the cuttings into lengths of about 4 inches, 

 remove all the leaves except those belonging to the top 

 buds, make the cut very smooth across, just under the 

 lowest bud ; the cutting is then ready to be planted. 

 Have a small stick about as thick as a quill, and thrust 

 it into the soil just the depth of the cutting, so as to 

 leave the top bud out ; close the earth firmly to the 

 bottom of the cutting with the stick ; place the cuttings 

 close to the edge of the pots, with the leaves of all point- ' 

 ing inwards ; then close up the holes with a little of the | 

 sand, and give a gentle watering. The best situation j 

 to place the pots in is a pit, with hand-glasses over them. ' 

 If you have not that convenience, plunge the pots in 

 coal-ashes on a shady border, covering them with hand- , 

 glasses. Shift into larger pots as they require. 



Cuttings in the Open Ground. Choose a shady border, j 

 next a low wall or hedge the latter to be close-clipped 

 with the garden-shears. Let the soil be well dug and 

 chopped small, and the surface raked very fine ; then 

 pour some water upon it, and let it stand a day, to become 

 moderately dry again. Prepare the cuttings as above 

 directed, and always expose the cuttings as little as 

 possible to the sun and air ; they may be preserved fresh 

 by having a little damp moss or hay at hand to cover 

 them with as soon as they are prepared. When a 

 sufficient number are ready, open a trench with a small 

 spade at the end of the border. Chop the side of the 

 trench furthest from you straight down just a sufficient 

 depth to leave the topmost bud and leaf out of the soil ; 

 then place the cuttings against this upright bank about 

 3 inches apart. When the row is filled with cuttings. 

 with your spade put the soil against the cuttings, and 

 with your foot tread it firmly to them. Take great 

 care that the soil is quite close and firm around each. 

 Then fill up level with the top of the row of cuttings 

 Another portion of soil, until there is a bank of earth 



6 inches distant from the first row. Chop down the 

 outermost edge of the soil, so as to leave another upright 

 bank to set the second row of cuttings against, and so 

 proceed from row to row, till you have filled the space 

 Bet apart for this purpose. Examine a few of them 

 occasionally after about six weeks, and if they are rooted, 



lift them carefully with a trowel or small spade, and either 

 pot them or plant them out in rows in a more open 

 situation. By the autumn following they will be nice 

 plants, and may be planted in the situation where they 

 are to grow and flower. 



By Suckers. Roses send up many suckers annually, 

 which may be taken up in autumn, winter, or early 

 spring, with some rootlets attached ; and the strongest 

 may be planted out finally, and the weakest in the 

 nursery for a year or two longer. They will readily 

 grow, and will most of them produce flowers the follow- 

 ing summer. When rose-trees have grown into large 

 bushes, with many suckers, the whole may be taken 

 up and slipped, or divided into separate plants. The 

 Moss and some others furnish suckers but sparingly. 



By Layers. To obtain shoots for layering, a quantity 

 of rose-trees should be planted for stools, which, being 

 headed down low, will throw out shoots abundantly, 

 near the ground, in summer, for layering in autumn or 

 winter following. (See LAYERING.) They will be rooted 

 by next autumn, and fit for transplantation in nursery 

 rows, though sometimes the moss rose and some others 

 require two years before they are tolerably well rooted ; 

 but of these sorts you may also try layers of the shoots 

 of the year, layered in summer, any time in June. They 

 will probably root a little the same season. The layers 

 of all the sorts, after being properly rooted, should be 

 taken up in autumn and planted in the nursery, to 

 have one or two years' growth. 



By Budding. See BUDDING and GRAFTING. 



Soil and Situation. The best soil is a rather strong 

 loam ; the deeper it is the better. It should be well- 

 drained. Such land as will grow good wheat or good 

 hops will grow fine roses. Next, it should be rich to 

 grow them fine : if not already so, it ought to have 

 thoroughly decayed dung added to it. A portion of 

 superphosphate of lime (bones dissolved in oil of vitriol) 

 will be of great benefit to them a manure that may be 

 had of any respectable manure-dealer. The rose-garden 

 ought to open to the south and east, but be sheltered 

 from the north and north-west winds. Tall beech or 

 horn-beam hedges are the best shelter against gales 

 blowing from those points. Roses should not be planted 

 so near trees as to be overhung by them, as the drip 

 from the trees will prevent them from thriving, and injure 

 the flowers. 



Planting. The best season is the early part of Novem- 

 ber. They will succeed tolerably even to the middle of 

 March, but not so well as in the autumn. If you have 

 to procure them from a distant nursery, and they are 

 some time out of the ground, make a puddle of earth 

 and water of nearly the consistence of paint. Dip the 

 roots in this puddle, and plant them immediately. 

 Should the border intended for the rose be long and 

 narrow, plant the tallest standards in the back row, the 

 next size in the second, and the half-standards in the 

 third, and the dwarfs in the front row. 



Autumn Pruning : Summer Roses. Provence, including 

 the Moss Rose. These require to be pruned to three or 

 four eyes, according to the strength of the shoots. 

 Damask. These require to be pruned according to the 

 strength of the growth of the different varieties. Madam 

 Hardy, for instance, is a strong grower, and ought to be 

 left with shoots of six eyes. White Damask. This 

 species should be pruned similarly to the Damask. 

 Gallica, or French. Some of these are very strong 

 growers, and must be cut accordingly. Some shoots, in 

 good soil, will grow 3 or 4 feet long. Those shoots are 

 often pithy and green, and ought to be cut clean out, 

 and the rest shortened to i foot or 18 inches, according 

 to their strength. Hybrid, Provence. They grow natu- 

 rally in compact heads and many branches, and should 

 be pruned by thinning out about one-third of the shoots, 

 and shortening the rest to six or eight eyes. Hybrid, 

 Chinese. The strong growers, Brennus for instance, must 

 be cut to eight or nine eyes ; whilst the Beauty of Billard 

 is a weak grower, and should be cut to two or three 

 eyes, and half the shoots entirely cut away. Scotch. All 

 that these require is to have half of the shoots thinned 

 out, and those that are left cut to half their length. 

 Climbing. These require a different mode of pruning to 

 all other roses. We shall describe it as the spur system. 

 Train in young shoots during the summer ; in the autumn 

 shorten those shoots one-fourth of their length that is, 

 supposing the 3hoot is 4 feet long, cut i foot of it off, 



