ROSE 



756 



ROSMARINUS 



and so reduce it to 3 feet, and in the same proportion 

 for longer shoots. The shoots will then, during the 

 summer, produce side-shoots ; these are the spurs. In 

 the month of March following, take the shoots off the 

 trellis walls or pillars, prune the spurs into two or three 

 eyes, and then tie or nail them up again neatly to the 

 supporters. 



Autumn Priming : Autumn Roses. Macartney. The 

 Macartney rose itself requires very little pruning ; but 

 the Maria Leonidas requires pruning freely, shortening 

 the strong shoots to eight or nine eyes, and the weak 

 ones to three or four. Damask Perpetuals and Hybrid 

 Perpetuals are mostly weak growers, and should be cut 

 into four or five eyes, and a third of the shoots cut 

 clean away. Bourbons and Noisettes are middling growers, 

 and should be pruned moderately ; strong shoots to be 

 cut to five or six eyes, and the weak ones to three or 

 four. China and Tea-scented. Most of these are rather 

 tender ; consequently, the wood does not ripen to any 

 length. They, should, therefore, be pruned close. If 

 they are planted against a wall they may be pruned 

 longer, as the wood then becomes firmer and better 

 ripened. Prune those in the open air, both standards 

 and dwarfs, to two or three eyes, those on walls to six 

 or seven, in proportion to their strength. 



Summer Pruning. It often happens, where the roses 

 are growing in good ground, that some of them produce 

 branches that grow so strong and fast as to rob the rest 

 of their due support. These branches are what the 

 French call gourmands, which may be Englished gluttons. 

 Only stop these at first, and wait until the autumn 

 before you cut them clean off. When the rose- trees 

 throw out a great number of shoots equally strong, and 

 they appear to be crowded, prune away about one- third 

 of them, but do not shorten any of the others, as that 

 will cause them to send out a quantity of small, weak 

 shoots, which will injure the flowers the following season. 



Roses in Pots. Procure some pots that are well cleaned, 

 or, what is better still, quite new ; and 24*5 are a very 

 convenient size to commence with. Worked roses are 

 preferable, for pot purposes, to those grown on their 

 own roots ; therefore select such as are dwarf only, and 

 worked close to the collar, so that when the rose is potted 

 the stem is scarcely visible. Tea, China, and Bourbon, 

 or their hybrids, are better suited for forcing and pot 



Elants than Noisette and Hybrid perpetuals ; the two 

 st-named class of roses growing to greater perfection 

 in the open air. Amongst Tea Roses select Saffrano, 

 Devoniensis, Comte de Paris, Niphetos, and Princess 

 Clementine. Mrs. Bosanquet, Duchess of Kent, with a 

 few others, amongst Chinas ; Souvenir de la Malmaison, 

 Leveson Gower, and Ditpetit Thouars, amongst Bourbons. 

 Of the above Souvenir de la Malmaison is unrivalled as 

 a pot rose. Having selected plants, lose no time ; but 

 before the roots have got dry, pot them (having first 

 pruned the strong roots) in a mixture of half yellow loam, 

 and the rest old cow-dung, leaf-mould, and sand in 

 equal parts ; but a greater proportion of loam may be 

 added with advantage, should the rose to be potted 

 be a Bourbon or Hybrid perpetual. The plants being 

 potted in October, place them on ashes under a north 

 wall, in some sheltered part of the garden, until the 

 frosts compel to put them in cold pits, keeping them, 

 since their being repotted, as dry as can be to prevent 

 growth, but not sufficiently so to cause the plants to 

 flag, or their roots to get quite dry. Then, about the 

 commencement of December, prune all that you intend 

 bringing into the greenhouse in the early part of January, 

 for blooming in May and June, and stimulate them 

 gently by applying water at a temperature a few degrees 

 warmer than the atmosphere of the pit where they still 

 are, so as when they are introduced into the greenhouse 

 at the commencement of January, at a medium tem- 

 perature of 45, they are just beginning to push strongly. 

 About the commencement of February a little more heat 

 is to be given, and weak liquid-manure is applied about 

 twice a week, which is strengthened as the plants increase 

 in vigour and have their buds well set. About this 

 time syringing overhead with lukewarm water, or 

 steaming, may occasionally be had recourse to, as it 

 tends to give strength to the plants, and keeps away 

 the aphis and other enemies. Lastly, when the shoots 

 are sufficiently long for the purpose, they are to be 

 gently brought down to the sides of the pot, or staked 

 to such places as they are intended to occupy, so as 

 when the plants are ready for the show, these appliances 



may be removed, and the plant still preserve a round and 

 uniform appearance. It is necessary at all times, when 

 the temperature is at 50 or above, to give as much air 

 as possible ; and this may even be done when a gentle 

 fire is going. 



Diseases. See EXTRAVASATED SAP, GREEN CENTRE, 

 MILDEW, and ROSE RUST. 



Insects. See APHIS, ANISOPIA, and TORTRIX. 



ROSE ACACIA. Robi'nia hi'spida. 



ROSE APPLE. Euge'nia Ja'mbos. 



ROSE BAY. Epilo'bium angustifo'lium. 



ROSE CAMPION. Ly'chnis dioi'ca. 



ROSEMARY. Rosmari'nus officina'lis. 



Varieties. There are three varieties the green, golden- 

 striped, and silver-striped. The first is in general 

 cultivation. 



Soil. It thrives best on a poor, light soil mixed with 

 old mortar, or other calcareous matters. In such, or 

 when the plants are self-raised on an old wall, they will 

 bear our severest winters ; but in a rich soil they lose 

 much of their aromatic nature, and perish in frost. For 

 the green variety, the situation may be open ; but the 

 other two, being tender, require to be planted beneath 

 a south wall, or in pots, to b* sheltered in winter. 



Propagation is by cuttings and rooted slips during any 

 of the spring months, or by layers in the summer ; but 

 the finest plants are raised by seed. By layers is the 

 best mode of propagating the gold and silver-striped 

 varieties. Sow in March, or early in April, in drills 

 | inch deep and 6 inches apart. The rooted slips, and 

 the cuttings of the young shoots, must be from 5 to 



7 inches long, and planted in a shady border, in rows 



8 or 10 inches apart, previously removing the leaves 

 from the lower two-thirds of their length. Layers may- 

 be formed by cutting young branches half through on 

 their under-side, and pegging them down an inch or 

 two below the surface : they become established plants 

 by autumn. Water must be applied abundantly at the 

 time of planting, and occasionally afterwards until 

 established. 



ROSE OF HEAVEN. Ly'chnis Cce'li-ro'sa. 

 ROSE OF JERICHO. Anasta'tica. 



ROSE OF THE WORLD. Came'llia japo'nica Ro'sa 

 mu'ndi. 



ROSE ROOT. Se'dum ro'seum. 



ROSE RUST AND BRAND. (Phragmidium subcor- 

 ticatum.) In some gardens and in some seasons hardy, 

 hybrid roses more especially get attacked with this 

 fungoid disease, but no variety, probably, is immune 

 from attack. All three stages of the fungus occur on 

 the same varieties of Rose. In early summer orange- 

 coloured blotches appear on the leaves and shoots, this 

 being the ascidiospore stage of the fungus. It is followed 

 by deeper coloured blotches later in summer, this being 

 the uredospore stage. The blotches mav grow into each 

 other, forming larger blotches, more or less covering the 

 whole leaflet ; while those on the shoots may attain a 

 length of one inch, often causing them to become bent 

 or curved. The winter or resting stage (teleutospore) of 

 the fungus makes its appearance in autumn, in the form 

 of minute black specks projecting from the under 

 surface of the leaves. This is known as Rose Brand. 

 The teleutospore is linear, shortly tailed at the apex, 

 and seven to eight celled. It is the most difficult stage 

 of the fungus to destroy. 



Autumn is a good time to take stern measures for the 

 eradication of the fungus. All affected leaves on the 

 Roses, and all fallen leaves, should be gathered and burned 

 to get rid of the resting spores, and so prevent attack 

 in the summer following. In spring, when the leaves 

 commence to expand, spray the bushes with sulphide of 

 potassium, at the rate of one ounce to three gallons of 

 water. Orange patches on the shoots should be sponged 

 with methylated spirits and water, half and half. Wild 

 roses in the neighbourhood, affected with rust, should 

 also be sprayed to prevent fresh infection in the garden. 



ROSE SNOWBALL-TREE. Vibu'rnum O'pulus sterile. 



ROSMARI'NUS. Rosemary. (From ros, dew, and 

 marinus, of the sea ; maritime plants. Nat. ord. Lip- 

 worts [Labiatae]. Linn. 2-Diandria, i-Monogynia.) 



