TULIPA 



880 



TULIP 



7*. neglttcta (neglected). See T. STRANGULATA NEGLKCTA. 

 ni'tida (shining). . Vermilion, with small blotch. 



April. Bokhara. 1902. 

 O'culus-so'lis (sun's-eye). i. Red, blue. April. 



Italy. 1816. 



ale'ppica (Aleppo). Basal blotch obscure. 

 pe'rsica (Persian), i. Scarlet, black. April. 



Persia. 1826. 

 orphani'dea (Orphanidian). |-i. Yellow, tinted red 



or green outside. Greece. 1862. 

 ostrowskia'na (Ostrowskyan). 1-2. Orange-scarlet, 



with brown blotch. Turkestan. 1884. 

 oxype'tala (sharp-petaled). See T. UNIFLORA OXY- 



PETALA. 



pa'tens (spreading), i. White, grey. April. Siberia. 



1817. 

 platysti'gma (broad-stigma), i-ij. Coral-rose ; base 



yellow. May. S. Europe. 



polychro'ma (many-coloured). }. Persia. 1885. 

 prcz'cox (early), i. Scarlet. April. Italy. 1825. 

 prez'stans (excelling), i-ij. Orange-red, with yellow 



base. April. Bokhara. 1903. 

 primuli'na (primrose). J-i. Pale primrose-yellow. 



May. Algeria. 1882. 



pube'scens (downy), i. Red. April. 1824. 

 pulche'lla (pretty), i-fc. Crimson-purple, with black 



base. March. Cilicia. 1877. 

 refpens (creeping). See T. SYLVESTRIS. 

 retrofle'xa (bent-back). i-i|. Clear yellow. April, 



May. Garden origin. 1874. 

 sa*a'/z/ts'(rock). i-i. Deep red to rosy-pink, with 



yellow base. April, May. Crete. 1827. 

 scabrisca'pa (rough-stemmed). 2. Red, yellow. 



April. Italy. 1837. 



strangula' ta (choked). See T. STRANGULATA. 

 Schre'nkii (Schrenk's). $-J. Crimson, with yellow 



base. Turkestan. 1879. 

 Sinteni'sii (Sintenis'). J. Bright scarlet. March. 



Turkish Armenia. 1891. 

 spaihula'ta (spathulate). i|. Crimson-scarlet, with 



violet blotch. April. Italy. 

 Sprenge'ri (Sprenger's). 1-2. Brilliant scarlet. May, 



June. Armenia. 1891. 

 stella'ta (starred). z\. White. April. Himalaya ; 



Persia. 1827. 



strangula'ta (choked). i. April. Europe. 

 macula'ta (blotched). Soft yellow; base black. 



1903. 



negle'cta (neglected). Pale yellow. 

 suave'olens (sweet-scented). . Red, yellow. April. 



S. Russia. 1603. 



latifo'lia (broad-leaved). See T. PUBESCENS. 

 plurifto'm (several-flowered). Bright scarlet ; 



scape two-flowered. 1903. 

 sultanabade'nsis (Sultanabad). BriUiant scarlet, with 



black blotch. March. Persia. 1894. 

 sylve'stris (wild), i. Yellow. April. Europe (Eng- 

 land). " Wild Tulip." 



bifto'ra (two-flowered). See T. BIFLORA. 

 ,, mi'nor (lesser). See T. BIEBERSTEINIANA. 

 thianscha'nica (Thian-schan). . Flowers less than 



one inch long. Thian-schan Mountains. 1879. 

 tri'color (three-coloured). See T. PATENS. 

 triphy'lla (three-leaved). . Bright yellow. March, 



April. Turkestan. 1877. 

 Hce'ltzeri (Hceltzer's). Small, yellow, with red 



band on back. 1884. 

 tubergenia'na (Tubergenian). i. Scarlet, with black 



blotch. April. Bokhara. 1904. 

 tu'rcica (Turkish). See T. ACUMINATA. 

 turkesta'nica (Turkestan), $-J. White, with yellow 



base. April. Turkestan. 1875. 

 undulatifo'lia (waved-leaved), -. Scarlet, with 



black blotch. April, May. Asia Minor. 1877. 

 Boissiefri (Boissier's). Similar, but the aureole is 



narrow. 

 Harmo'nia (harmony). Flowers larger. April. 



Taurus. 1893. 

 uniflo'ra (one-flowered). $-|. Flower small, pale 



yellow. April, May. Altai Mountains. 1781. 

 oxype'tala (sharp-petaled). Segments narrower, 



more pointed. 1879. 



va'ria-pi'cta (variously-painted). See T. STRANGULATA. 

 viola'cea (violet). J. Violet-purple. March, April. 



N. Persia. 1894. 



T. viridiflo'ra (green-flowered), i. Green, with yellowish 



edges. Garden origin. 

 prce'cox (early), ij. Flowers larger, with brighter 



yellow edges. 

 vitelli'na (yolk-of-egg). i*-2. Sulphur-yellow, fading 



to creamy-white. May. Garden origin. 

 ,, wilsonia'na (Wilsonian). $-1. Vermilion, with black 



blotch. May. Persia. 1901. 



TULIP AS A FLORIST'S FLOWER. Florists call tulips 

 seedlings until they have bloomed ; after this those pre- 

 served on account of their good form and habit, as well 

 as the offsets they produce, are called breeders. After 

 some years the petals of these become striped, and they 

 are then said to be broken. If the striping is good they 

 are said to have a good strain ; if it be inferior, they are 

 described as having a bad strain. A rectified tulip is 

 synonymous with a tulip having a good strain. 



A feathered tulip has a dark-coloured edge round its 

 petals, gradually becoming lighter on the margin next 

 the centre of the petal. The feathering is said to be 

 light, if narrow ; heavy, if broad ; and irregular, if its 

 inner edge has a broken outline. 



A flamed tulip is one that has a dark-pointed spot, 

 somewhat in shape like the flame of a candle, in the 

 centre of each petal. 



Sometimes a tulip is both feathered and flamed. 



A Bizarred tulip has a yellow ground, and coloured 

 marks on its petals. 



A Byblcemen is white, marked with black, lilac, or 

 purple. 



A Rose is white, with marks of crimson, pink, or scarlet. 



The end of September is a good time for preparing the 

 tulip-bed. 



Situation. The aspect should be open to the south and 

 south-east, but well sheltered from the north, north-east, 

 and north-west winds. We prefer a perfectly level sur- 

 face, because the advantage of rain falling upon the bed 

 and sinking into the earth is more certain than on a slope. 

 The elevation of the site is also a consideration worth 

 serious attention. Wherever it is in the power of the 

 cultivator of tulips intended for exhibition to choose the 

 site, let him choose the happy medium, neither too high 

 nor too low. If there are no shelters already on the 

 spot to defend and protect those choice flowers from the 

 untoward blasts of the northern quarter, there ought to 

 be some prepared. A close wooden paling is the one 

 most ready and effectual, and if made of deal or oak, and 

 well-painted, will last several years. Beech, hornbeam, 

 yew, or arbor vitae hedges are very excellent ; but they 

 require several years' growth before they are high enough 

 to screen the flowers effectually. They might be planted 

 behind the paling, to be advancing in growth ; so that 

 when the paling decays the hedges would be high and 

 thick enough to answer the purpose. Whatever shelter 

 is made use of, it should be placed at a sufficient distance 

 from the beds not to draw up the flowers, or prevent a 

 full exposure to light. On these accounts, or for these 

 reasons, the wind-shelters should never exceed 6 or 

 8 feet high. 



Draining. The tulip loves a deep soil and a dry sub- 

 soil. Where there is a good depth of good loam, with a 

 dry, gravelly, or sandy bottom, no more drains are re- 

 quired than one or two formed with drain-pipes and 

 tiles to carry off the water that may fall in wet seasons 

 on the surface. An upright shaft, with a grating on the 

 top to catch this surface-water, will be necessary. When 

 the natural soil is shallow and the subsoil clay, or any 

 other water-retaining substance, set out the bed the 

 desired length and breadth, and cast on one side all the 

 good soil, shovelling the small crumbs ; then dig, or 

 hack and shovel out the subsoil till the bed is 18 inches 

 deep. After that is finished, dig a drain in the centre 

 of the bed 6 inches deep, and wide enough to allow the 

 operator to lay down first the flat tiles, and then the 

 circular pipes, with holes in the latter to admit the water 

 to escape into them, and then be carried clean away. 

 When the pipes, &c., are laid down, cover them with 

 rubble, and then lay all over the bottom of the bed 3 or 

 4 inches of either small stones, broken clinkers, or brick- 

 ends. Upon this drainage lay a stratum of short straw 

 or small brushwood ; make this smooth, and you may 

 consider the drainage complete. 



Manure and Soil. Procure some one-year-old cow- 

 dung ; spread over and upon the drains a stratum of 



