TULIP 



881 



TUPISTRA 



this cow-dung 2 inches thick ; then mix about one-sixth 

 of very well-decomposed hotbed dung with the loam 

 thrown out and laid on one side on commencing the 

 operation of draining. If there is not enough soil to 

 make the bed up level as before, procure some good loam 

 for the purpose, mixing it with the same proportion of 

 well-decomposed dung. If the situation is low and damp, 

 it will be advisable to place an edging round the bed 

 6 or 8 inches deep, of sufficient strength to bear up the 

 soil when it is raised to that height. The best material 

 for an edging of this kind is blue slate, which may now 

 be had very reasonably ; the next best are common flags 

 of slate ; and the next, slabs of wood nailed to strong 

 uprights driven into the ground at proper intervals. 

 Mix the top surface with a considerable mixture of river 

 sand ; this will cause the bulbs to come out of the soil 

 at taking-up time clean and of a bright brown colour. 

 Should the collection be large, there should be two 

 parallel beds, with a walk between them. 



Planting. The best season is about the beginning of 

 the second week in November, as near the tenth of that 

 month as the weather and the state of the ground will 

 permit. This rule applies to all the country north of 

 London ; perhaps, in the milder climate of the southern 

 counties, a week later would be better. Too early 

 planting is injurious, inasmuch as that the leaves will 

 be pushing through before the severe weather has passed 

 away, and would then be in danger, however well pro- 

 tected, of being frost-nipped, and, consequently, injured 

 not only for that year, but also for years to come. 



The Method of Planting is governed by the height of the 

 flower-stems ; for, as some varieties grow taller than 

 others, the tallest should be in the centre of the bed. 

 This consideration renders it necessary to plant them in 

 rows lengthways of the bed, and not across it. This 

 being determined upon, let the soil of the bed be levelled 

 and made tolerably smooth ; then, with a triangular 

 hoe, draw a drill the length of the bed, as near 2 inches 

 deep as possible. To accomplish this quite straight, it 

 will be necessary to have a line stretched very tightly 

 the whole length of the bed, at such a distance from 

 the centre as will allow the point of the hoe, in drawing 

 the drill, to be exactly in the centre. As soon as the 

 drill is drawn, bring out all the tall growers, and plant 

 them 5 inches apart at the bottom, giving each a gentle 

 pressure. When the row is finished, thrust in at each 

 end a strong stick ; this is to mark where the row of 

 bulbs is when covered up. Of very choice and expensive 

 varieties, some florists recommend covering the bulbs 

 with fine white sand ; but, if the soil is mixed with sand, 

 we think the white sand may be dispensed with. Cover 

 them up by drawing the soil over them with a short- 

 toothed rake. After that let the soil on each side of the 

 planted row be stirred up with a three-pronged fork. 

 Then set the line at the right distance from the centre 

 (we mentioned that the beds should be 4 feet wide, 

 which would allow 9 inches between each of the five 

 rows, and 6 inches next the edging) ; the line then must 

 be set at such a distance from the centre, that the next 

 row of bulbs will be exactly 9 inches apart from the 

 centre one. Draw the drill the same depth as the first, 

 and plant the next tallest flowers in it. Then mark the 

 row with a stick at each end, and so proceed till the 

 whole is finished ; the lowest growers will then be next 

 the paths all round the bed. Each variety must be 

 numbered, and the numbers put in so securely that they 

 cannot be easily displaced. 



Shelter is necessary for the flower before and when in 

 bloom. Where the collection is small, and the means 

 small too, this consists merely of hoops, either of wood or 

 iron, with canvas covers or mats to be thrown over the 

 hoops, which should be high enough to keep the covering 

 clear of the flowers. This covering should be applied 

 not only when the plants are in bloom, but also to shelter 

 them from the late frosts that sometimes come after the 

 plants make their appearance, as well as from the cutting 

 winds that often visit us in this country during^the early 

 months of the year. This shelter, however, must not 

 be used except when absolutely necessary. Too much 

 shelter only coddles the plants, and makes them so 

 tender that a too sudden exposure, or the least neglect 

 in applying the covering, would be equally as injurious 

 as no shelter at all ; therefore, on all favourable occa- 

 sions, remove the coverings entirely, and let them have 

 th3 benefit of fine weather and gentle rains. 



Where the collection is large, and the means ample, 

 the most convenient width of each bed would be 5 feet ; 

 this will hold 6 rows 9 inches apart. A walk between 

 them may be either 3 or 4 feet ; the latter will allow 

 more room for the operator and the spectator. Three 

 feet beyond each bed, on the outer sides, place a row of 

 pillars, 4^ inches square, to support the shelter ; each 

 pillar may either be let into the ground and well-rammed, 

 or be inserted into an iron or stone socket. These pillars 

 should stand above the surface at least 5 feet, and at a 

 distance of 5 feet from each other. On the top of each 

 pillar a rafter should be placed, to meet a corresponding 

 rafter in the centre of the space just over the centre of 

 the walk. Each rafter, at the junction, must be firmly 

 fastened to a longitudinal piece of wood running the 

 whole length of the beds, the length of the beds depend- 

 ing, of course, upon the number of roots, or size of the 

 collection. There will then be required two rollers of 

 wood of the length of the structure. On each of these 

 nail a sheet of canvas of sufficient width to drop down on 

 each side nearly to the ground. On the top, at the 

 centre, fix a pair of weather-boards, projecting high 

 enough to allow the roller and canvas to go under 

 them, one on each side. This will preserve the canvas 

 from rotting, and so enable it to be used for several years. 



TULIP, BUTTERFLY. Calocho'rtus lilaci'nus. 



TULIP, CALIFORNIA!!. Calocho'rtus. 



TULIP, DROOPING. Fritilla'ria Melea'gns. 



TULIP, GOLDEN STAR. Calocho'rtus pulthSllus. 



TULIP MYRTLE. Darwi'nia macroste'gia. 



TULIP POPPY. Papa'ver glau'cum. 



TULIP-TREE. Liriode'ndron tulipi'fera. 



TULIP-TREE, LAUREL-LEAVED. Magno'lia. 



TUNEOOF. Ne'peta Glecho'ma. 



TU'NICA. (From tunica, a coat; the calyx. Nat. 

 ord. Cloveworts [Caryophyllaceae]. Linn. io-Decandria, 

 2-Digynia. Allied to Dianthus.) 



Hardy herbaceous plants, blooming in July. Seeds in 

 spring, and division of the plants ; rich, light soil. 

 T. dianthoi'des (pink-like). Red. Candia. 1838. 



, illy'rica (Illyrian). Red. S. Europe. 1838. 



, oly'mpica (Olympian). Asia Minor. 



, pachyno'ta (thick-backed). White. Natolia. 1838. 



, proli'fera (proliferous), j. Pink. Europe (England). 

 Annual. 



, rhodo'pea, (rose-coloured). Gardens. 



, Saxi'fraga (saxifrage). \. Pink. Europe. 1774. 

 a'lba-ple'na (double- white), i. Double white. 

 1909. 



flo're ple'no (double-flowered). J. Semi-double, 



deep pink. 1901. 



stri'cta (erect). Pink. Altai. 1834. 

 veluti'na (velvety). Red. May. S. Europe ; Cau- 

 casus. 1837. Annual. 



TU'PA. (The name of one of the species hi Chili. 

 Nat. ord. Campanulads [Campariulaceae]. Linn. 5- 

 Pentandria, i-Monogynia. Referred to Lobelia.) 

 T. argu'ta (sharp-toothed-leaved). See SIPHOCAMPYLUS 



GIGANTEUS. 



bla'nda, (charming). 3. Pink. Chili. 



crassicau'lis (thick-stemmed). 3. Yellow, red. 



Brazil. 1849. 



Feui'llei (Feuille's). See LOBELIA TUFA. 

 polyphy'lla (many-leaved). See LOBELIA POLYPHYLLA. 

 purpu'rea (purple). See LOBELIA PURPUREA. 

 ,, salicifo'lia (willow-leaved). See SIPHOCAMPYLUS 



GIGANTEUS. 



secu'nda (side-/Zo;mttg). See LOBELIA SECUNDA. 

 TUPIDA'NTHUS. (From tupis, tupidos, a hammer, 

 and anthos, a flower ; in reference to the shape of the 

 flower-bud. Nat. ord. Araliaceae.) 



A rampant, evergreen stove climber. Cuttings in 

 sand, in a close frame, with bottom-heat. Loam, peat, 

 and sand. 

 T. calyptra'tus (capped). 40-50. Green. Himalaya. 



TUPI'STRA. (From iupis, tupidos, a hammer; in 

 reference to the form of the stigma. Nat. ord. Liliaceae. 

 Allied to Aspidistra.) 



Stove herbs, with large, evergreen leaves, like those 

 of Aspidistra. Divisions. Fibrous loam, leaf-mould, a 

 kttle manure, and sand. 



3K 



