1834.] MOUNT SARMIENTO. 241 



June 8th. We weighed anchor early in the morning and left 

 Fort Famine. Captain Fitz Roy determined to leave the Strait 

 of Magellan by the Magdalen Channel, which had not long been 

 discovered. Our course lay due south, down that gloomy pas- 

 sage which I have before alluded to, as appearing to lead to 

 another and worse world. The wind was fair, but the atmos- 

 phere was very thick ; so that we missed much curious scenery. 

 The dark ragged clouds were rapidly driven over the mountains, 

 from their summits nearly down to their bases. The glimpses 

 which we caught through the dusky mass, were highly interest- 

 ing ; jagged points, cones of snow, blue glaciers, strong outlines, 

 marked on a lurid sky, were seen at different distances and heights. 

 In the midst of such scenery we anchored at Cape Turn, close 

 to Mount Sarmiento, which was then hidden in the clouds. At 

 the base of the lofty and almost perpendicular sides of our little 

 cove there was one deserted wigwam, and it alone reminded us 

 that man sometimes wandered into these desolate regions. But 

 it would be difficult to imagine a scene where he seemed to have 

 fewer claims or less authority. The inanimate works of nature 

 rock, ice, snow, wind, and water all warring with each other, 

 yet combined against man here reigned in absolute sovereignty. 



June Qth. In the morning we were delighted by seeing the 

 veil of mist gradually rise from Sarmiento, and display it 

 to our view. This mountain, which is one of the highest in 

 Tierra del Fuego, has an altitude of 6800 feet. Its base, for 

 about an eighth of its total height, is clothed by dusky woods, 

 and above this a field of snow extends to the summit. These 

 vast piles of snow, which never melt, and seem destined to last 

 as long as the world holds together, present a noble and even 

 sublime spectacle. The outline of the mountain was admirably 

 clear and defined. Owing to the abundance of light reflected 

 from the white and glittering surface, no shadows were cast on 

 any part ; and those lines which intersected the sky could alone 

 be distinguished : hence the mass stood out in the boldest relief. 

 Several glaciers descended in a winding course from the upper 

 great expanse of snow to the sea-coast : they may be likened to 

 great frozen Niagaras ; and perhaps these cataracts of blue ice 

 are full as beautiful as the moving ones of water. By night we 

 reached the western part of the channel ; but the water was so 



