1834.] BAY OF VALPARAISO. 263 



roofs, the view reminded me of St. Cruz in Teneriffe. In a 

 north-easterly direction there are some fine glimpses of the 

 Andes : but these mountains appear much grander when viewed 

 from the neighbouring hills ; the great distance at which they 

 are situated, can then more readily be perceived. The volcano 

 of Aconcagua is particularly magnificent. This huge and irre- 

 gularly conical mass has an elevation greater than that of Chim- 

 borazo ; for, from measurements made by the officers in the 

 Beagle, its height is no less than 23,000 feet. The Cordillera, 

 however, viewed from this point, owe the greater part of their 

 beauty to the atmosphere through which they are seen. When 

 the sun was setting in the Pacific, it was admirable to watch 

 how clearly their rugged outlines could be distinguished, yet 

 how varied and how delicate were the shades of their colour. 



I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Richard Cor- 

 field, an old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality and 

 kindness I was greatly indebted, in having afforded me a most 

 pleasant residence during the Beagle's stay in Chile. The im- 

 mediate neighbourhood of Valparaiso is not very productive to 

 the naturalist. During the long summer the wind blows steadily 

 from the southward, and a little off shore, so that rain never 

 falls ; during the three winter months, however, it is suffici- 

 ently abundant. The vegetation in consequence is very scanty 

 except in some deep valleys, there are no trees, and only a 

 little grass and a few low bushes are scattered over the less 

 steep parts of the hills. When we reflect, that at the distance of 

 350 miles to the south, this side of the Andes is completely 

 hidden by one impenetrable forest, the contrast is very remark- 

 able. I took several long walks while collecting objects of na- 

 tural history. The country is pleasant for exercise. There are 

 many very beautiful flowers ; and, as in most other dry climates, 

 the plants and shrubs possess strong and peculiar odours even 

 one's clothes by brushing through them became scented. I did 

 not cease from wonder at finding each succeeding day as fine as 

 the foregoing. What a difference does climate make in the en- 

 joyment of life ! How opposite are the sensations when viewing 

 black mountains half-enveloped in clouds, and seeing another 

 range through the light blue haze of a fine da^f ! The one for a 

 time may be very sublime ; the other is all gaiety and haopy life 



