1832.] POINTS OF ETIQUETTE. 31 



rocky mountains. It is of the usual symmetrical form ; and with its 

 whitewashed church standing in the centre, had rather a pretty appear- 

 ance. The outskirting houses rose out of the plain like isolated beings, 

 without the accompaniment of gardens or courtyards. This is generally 

 the case in the country, and all the houses have, in consequence, an 

 uncomfortable aspect. At night we stopped at a pulperia, or drinking- 

 shop. During the evening a great number of Gauchos came in to 

 drink spirits and smoke cigars : their appearance is very striking ; they 

 are generally tall and haiidsome, but with a proud and dissolute 

 expression of countenance. They frequently wear their moustaches, 

 and long black hair curling down their backs. With their brightly 

 coloured garments, great spurs clanking about their heels, and knives 

 stuck as daggers (and often so used) at their waists, they look a very 

 different race of men from what might be expected from their name 

 of Gauchos, or simple countrymen. Their politeness is excessive ; 

 they never drink their spirits without expecting you to taste it ; but 

 whilst making their exceedingly graceful bow, they seem quite as 

 ready, if occasion offered, to cut your throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as I was 

 employed in examining some beds of marble. On the fine plains of 

 turf we saw many ostriches (Struthio rhea). Some of the flocks con- 

 tained as many as twenty or thirty birds. These, when standing on 

 any little eminence, and seen against the clear sky, presented a very 

 noble appearance. I never met with such tame ostriches in any other 

 part of the country : it was easy to gallop up within a short distance 

 of them ; but then, expanding their wings, they made all sail right 

 before the wind, and soon left the horse astern. 



At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a rich landed 

 proprietor, but not personally known to either of my companions. On 

 approaching the house of a stranger, it is usual to follow several little 

 points of etiquette : riding up slowly to the door, the salutation of Ave 

 Maria is given, and until somebody comes out and asks you to alight, 

 it is not customary even to get off your horse : the formal answer of 

 the owner is, "sin pecado concebida" that is, conceived without sin. 

 Having entered the house, some general conversation is kept up for 

 a few minutes, till permission is asked to pass the night there. This 

 is granted as a matter of course. The stranger then takes his meals 

 with the family, and a room is assigned him, where with the horse- 

 cloths belonging to his recado (or saddle of the Pampas) he makes 

 his bed. It is curious how similar circumstances produce such 

 similar results in manners. At the Cape of Good Hope the same 

 hospitality, and very nearly the same points of etiquette, are universally 

 observed. The difference, however, between the character of the 

 Spaniard and that of the Dutch boor is shown, by the former never 

 asking his guest a single question beyond the strictest rule ot politeness, 

 while the honest Dutchman demands where he has been, where he 

 is going, what is his business, and even how many brothers, sisters, or 

 children he may happen to have. 



Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's, one of the large herds of 



