$8 BAHIA BLANCA. [CHAP. v. 



banks, which the inhabitants call Cangrejales, or crabberies, from the 

 number of small crabs. The mud is so soft that it is impossible to 

 walk over them, even for the shortest distance. Many of the banks 

 have their surfaces covered with long rushes, the tops of which alone 

 are visible at high water. On one occasion, when in a boat, we were 

 so entangled by these shallows that we could hardly find our way. 

 Nothing was visible but the flat beds of mud ; the day was not very 

 clear, and there was much refraction, or as the sailors expressed it, 

 " Things loomed high." The only object within our view which was 

 not level was the horizon ; rushes looked like bushes unsupported in 

 the air, and water like mud-banks, and mud-banks like water. 



We passed the night in Punta Alta, and I employed myself in search- 

 ing for fossil bones ; this point being a perfect catacomb for monsters 

 of extinct races. The evening was perfectly calm and clear ; the 

 extreme monotony of the view gave it an interest even in the midst of 

 mud-banks and gulls, sand-hillocks and solitary vultures. In riding 

 back in the morning we came across a very fresh track of a Puma, but 

 did not succeed in finding it. We saw also a couple of Zorillos, or 

 skunks, odious animals, which are far from uncommon. In general 

 appearance the Zorillo resembles a polecat, but it is rather larger, and 

 much thicker in proportion. Conscious of its power, it roams by day 

 about the open plain, and fears neither dog nor man. If a dog is urged 

 to the attack, its courage is instantly checked by a few drops of the 

 fetid oil, which brings on violent sickness and running at the nose. 

 Whatever is once polluted by it, is for ever useless. Azara says the 

 smell can be perceived at a league distant ; more than once, when 

 entering the harbour of Monte Video, the wind being off shore, we 

 have perceived the odour on board the Beagle. Certain it is, that every 

 animal most willingly makes room for the Zorillo. 



CHAPTER V. 



BAHIA BLANCA. 



Bahia Blanca Geology Numerous gigantic extinct Quadrupeds Recent 

 Extinction Longevity of Species Large Animals do not require a Luxu- 

 riant Vegetation Southern Africa Siberian Fossils Two Species of 

 Ostrich Habits of Oven-bird Armadilloes Venomous Snake, Toad, 

 Lizard Hybernation of Animals Habits of Sea-penIndians' Wars 

 and Massacres Arrow-head, Antiquarian Relic. 



THE Beagle arrived here on the 24th ol August,' and a week afterwards 

 Bailed for the Plata. With Captain Fitz Roy's consent I was left behind, 

 to travel by fend to Buenos Ayres. I will here add some observations 

 which were made during this visit and on a previous occasion, when the 

 Beagle was employed in surveying the harbour. 



