l33-l STATE OF SOCIETY. 113 



is modest, both respecting himself and country, but at the same time a 

 spirited, bold fellow. On the other hand, many robberies are com- 

 mitted, and there is much bloodshed : the habit of constantly wearing 

 the knife is the chief cause of the latter. It is lamentable to hear ho w 

 many lives are lost in trifling quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to 

 mark the face of his adversary by slashing his nose or eyes ; as is often 

 attested by deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies are a natural 

 consequence of universal gambling, much drinking, and extreme indo- 

 lence. At Mercedes I asked two men why they did not work. One 

 gravely said the days were too long ; the other that he was too poor. 

 The number of horses and the profusion of food are the destruction of 

 all industry. Moreover, there aft so many feast-days ; and again, 

 nothing can succeed without it be begun when the moon is on the 

 increase ; so that half the month is lost from these two causes. 



Police and justice are quite inefficient. If a man who is poor commits 

 murder and is taken, he will be imprisoned, and perhaps even shot ; 

 but if he is rich and has friends, he may rely on it no very severe con- 

 sequence will ensue. It is curious that the most respectable inhabitants 

 of the country invariably assist a murderer to escape ; they seem to 

 think that the individual sins against the government, and not against 

 the people. A traveller has no protection besides his firearms ; and 

 the constant habit of carrying them is the main check to more frequent 

 robberies. 



The character of the higher and more educated classes who reside in 

 the towns, partakes, but perhaps in a lesser degree, of the good parts 

 of the Gaucho, but is, I fear, stained by many vices of which he is free. 

 Sensuality, mockery of all religion, and the grossest corruption, are far 

 from uncommon. Nearly every public officer can be bribed. The head 

 man in the post-office sold forged government franks. The governor 

 and prime minister openly combined to plunder the state. Justice, 

 when gold came into play, was hardly expected by any one. I knew an 

 Englishman, who went to the Chief Justice (he told me, that not then 

 understanding the ways of the place, he trembled as he entered the 

 room), and said, " Sir, I have come to offer you two hundred (paper) 

 dollars (value about five pounds sterling) if you will arrest before a 

 certain time a man who has cheated me. I know it is against the 

 law, but my lawyer (naming him) recommended me to take this step." 

 The Chief Justice smiled acquiescence, thanked him, and the man 

 before night was safe in prison. With this entire want of principle 

 in many of the leading men, with the country full of ill-paid turbulent 

 officers, the people yet hope that a democratic form of government can 

 succeed ! 



On first entering society in these countries, two or three features 

 strike one as particularly remarkable. The polite and dignified manners 

 pervading every rank of life, the excellent taste displayed by the women 

 in their dresses, and the equality amongst all ranks. At the Rio Colorado 

 some men who kept the humblest shops used to dine with General 

 Kosas. A son of a major at Bahia Blanca gained his livelihood by 

 making paper cigars, and he wished to accompany me, as guide or 



