123 EXPLORING THE SANTA CRUZ. [CHAP. vL 



CHAPTER IX. 



SANTA CRUZ, PATAGONIA, AND THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. 



Santa Cruz Expedition up the River Indians Immense Streams of Basaltic 

 Lava Fragments not transported by the River Excavation of the Valley 

 Ccndor, Habits of Cordillera Erratic Boulders of great size Indian 

 Relics Return to the Ship Falkland Islands Wild Horses, Cattle, 

 Raboits Wolf-like Fox Fire made of Bones Manner of Hunting Wild 

 Cattle Geology Streams of Stones Scenes of Violenca Penguin 

 Geese Eggs of Coris Compound Animals, 



April i-$th, 1834. THE Beagle anchored within the mouth of the 

 Santa Cruz. This river is situated about sixty miles south of Port St. 

 Julian. During the last voyage Captain Stokes proceeded thirty miles 

 up it, but then, from the want of provisions, was obliged to return. 

 Excepting what was discovered at that time, scarcely anything was 

 known about this large river. Captain Fitz Roy now determined to 

 follow its course as far as time would allow. On the i8th three whale- 

 boats started, carrying three weeks' provisions ; and the party consisted 

 of twenty-five souls a force which would have been sufficient to have 

 defied a host of Indians. With a strong flood-tide and a fine day we 

 made a good run, soon drank some of the fresh water, and were at 

 night nearly above the tidal influence. 



The river here assumed a size and appearance which, even at the 

 highest point we ultimately reached, was scarcely diminished. It was 

 generally from three to four hundred yards broad, and in the middle 

 about seventeen feet deep. The rapidity of the current, which in its 

 whole course runs at the rate of from four to six knots an hour, is 

 peihaps its most remarkable feature. The water is of a fine blue colour, 

 but with a slight milky tinge, and not so transparent as at first sight 

 would have been expected. It flows over a bed of pebbles, like those 

 which compose the beach and the surrounding plains. It runs in a 

 winding course through a valley, which extends in a direct line west- 

 ward. This valley varies from five to ten miles in breadth ; it is 

 bounded by step-formed terraces, which rise in most parts, one above 

 the other, to the height of five hundred feet, and have on the opposite 

 sides a remarkable correspondence. 



April iqth. Against so strong a current it was, of course, quite im- 

 possible to row or sail ; consequently the three boats were fastened 

 together head and stern, two hands left in each, and the rest came on 

 shore to track. As the general arrangements made by Captain Fitz 

 Roy were very good for facilitating the work of all, and as all had a 

 share in it, I will describe the system. The party, including every one, 

 was divided into two spells, each of which hauled at the tracking line 

 alternately for an hour and a half. The officers of each boat lived with, 

 ate the same food, and slept in the same tent with their crew, so that 

 ea-ch boat was quite independent of the others. After sunset the first 



