184 CENTRAL CHILE. [CHAP. xn. 



and from the low whitewashed houses with tile roofs, the view reminded 

 me of St. Cruz in Teneriffe. In a north-easterly direction there are 

 some fine glimpses of the Andes ; but these mountains appear much 

 grander when viewed from the neighbouring hills ; the great distance 

 at which they are situated, can then more readily be perceived. The 

 volcano of Aconcagua is particularly magnificent. This huge and 

 irregularly conical mass has an elevation greater than that of Chim- 

 borazo ; for, from measurements made by the officers in the Beagle, its 

 height is no less than 23,000 feet. The Cordillera, however, viewed 

 from this point, owe the greater part of their beauty to the atmosphere 

 through which they are seen. When the sun was setting in the Pacific, 

 it was admirable to watch how clearly their rugged outlines could be 

 distinguished, yet how varied and how delicate were the shades of their 

 colour. 



I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Richard Corfield, an 

 old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality and kindness I was 

 greatly indebted, in having afforded me a most pleasant residence 

 during the Beagle's stay in Chile. The immediate neighbourhood ol 

 Valparaiso is not very productive to the naturalist. During the long 

 summer the wind blows steadily from the southward, and a little off 

 shore, so that rain never falls ; during the three winter months, how- 

 ever, it is sufficiently abundant. The vegetation in consequence is 

 very scanty ; except in some deep valleys, there are no trees, and only 

 a little grass and a few low bushes are scattered over the less steep 

 parts of the hills. When we reflect, that at the distance of 350 

 miles to the south, this side of the Andes is completely hidden 

 by one impenetrable forest, the contrast is very remarkable. I took 

 several long walks while collecting objects of natural history. The 

 country is pleasant for exercise. There are many very beautiful 

 flowers; and, as in most other dry climates, the plants and shrubs 

 possess strong and peculiar odours even one's clothes by brushing 

 through them became scented. I did not cease from wonder at 

 finding each succeeding day as fine as the foregoing. W r hat a differ- 

 ence does climate make in the enjoyment of life ! How opposite are 

 the sensations when viewing black mountains half enveloped in clouds, 

 and seeing another range through the light blue haze of a fine day ! 

 The one for a time may be very sublime; the 'other is all gaiety and 

 happy life. 



August l^th. I set out on a riding excursion, for the purpose of 

 geologizing the basal parts of the Andes, which alone at this time of 

 the year are not shut up by the winter snow. Our first day's ride was 

 northward along the sea-coast. After dark we reached the Hacienda 

 of Quintero, the estate which formerly belonged to Lord Cochrane. 

 My object in coming here was to see the great beds of shells, which 

 stand some yards above the level of the sea, and are burnt for lime. 

 The proofs of the elevation of this whole line ot coast are unequivocal : 

 at the height of a few hundred feet old-looking shells are numerous, 

 and I found some at 1,300 feet. These shells either lie loose on the 

 surface or are embedded in a reddish-black vegetable mould. I was 



